Tuesday 4th November Advanced Base Camp (5,700m) to Island Peak Summit (6,189m)
We rise just before 2am instinctively, just before the wake-up call – its weird how the body works sometimes – and get our gear together, easy as I’m wearing most of mine already! Brekkie is muesli & milk, biscuits and coffee, Saran forgot the tea but we warm the hands and innards with hot coffee which is a nice change! We finally push off into the dark just before 3.30pm with Nima (our climbing Sherpa) leading off into the cold morning. Our head torches blaze away, flickering into the dark like a bunch of fire flies in the darkest of night. We edge our way up the loose, exposed gully, I feel like a zombie as the body tries to wake up. We wind up the steep track; the toes start to warm and the body slowly starts to kick into action. I can suddenly smell beer and am thinking either Nima (now behind me) or maybe Ola has had a night on the turps, surely not! But no the beer (a can of San Miguel) has been punctured by my crampons in my pack – gutted - that was meant to be drunk on the summit as a celebration! We continue on balancing feet and hands up the loose path and rock walls as we elevate, partly scrambling partly tramping up. It starts to lighten as we near our first goal – “Crampon Point” – guessable as the place where we don the spikes for the snowfield. Saran comments about the fact that just before daybreak it always seems to cool down and then when the sun hits it starts the warming process as the earth gets blanketed with solar energy. Christine is really struggling but makes it to CP. We strap our crampons on, perched on a small buttress with striking icefalls all around us. Christina decides to pull the plug and head down – she’s had enough of dragging her arse and it’s the right and responsible call to make and we all really respect her for that, a tough call to make. Per, Nima and I form the lead climbing team, roping up and start winding our way up over a couple of crevasses in the snowfield as the view opens up we can see the large 100m headwall and the exposed ridge leading to our goal, the summit - what a great view and perspective. We plod on slow and steady as the air is thin in glorious sunshine and can make out a handful of climbers ascending the ramp in the distance. We continue on easy ground, and it’s not long before we arrive at the fixed ropes at the start of the 100 meter headwall. A Japanese man (very old - we later discover the youngest team member is 60 years of age in their party) is torturously making his way up the fixed ropes and almost looks on death’s door)! Saran, Freddy and Ola; in the second climbing team catch us up and it’s on, we’re ready to start the technical climb. Per heads up followed by myself with Nima skipping up next to the fixed line. This guy’s pretty casual, in his jeans and a smoke hanging out the side of his mouth, this is cruise mode for this Sherpa. The Japanese are creating a traffic jam at Anchor one but Nima does a great job in overtaking the old fella and getting our Jumas and safety slings around him. Some clear ice in front of us now, as our crampons bite into the 45-55 degree sloping ramp. The views are fantastic and again the bluebird day is just what we’d been hoping for, glorious conditions on summit day! There is the odd hole and crevasse slit so we take care and edge our way up slowly but surely as the adrenaline starts to flow. Snow and ice is constantly pelting down and it’s nice to have my trusty (and now battered) old helmet on, to duck in and avoid the deluge of ice debris. I reach another anchor with help from our lead Sherpa who doesn’t seem to even have an axe (ok so he’s summited Everest twice), a walk in the park is the impression he’s giving, but he’s in full control. I keep on going, determined, focused and feeling great, the preparation has been good and it’s paying off as I concentrate on step after step. I take my camera out to take a shot of Per in front of me, and just like the other evening, a big avalanche crashes down the other side of the valley onto the dirty brown moraine of the Lhotse Shar, a long way below us – what a view - spectacular! The headwall steepens to 50-55 degrees now and I use my axe pick style to really get some good purchase finally finishing the rope section and topping out onto the summit ridge. The hard part is done, now the 20 minute cruise up to the peak. The views are sublime Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,401m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) to the North. To the East rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier are Cho Polu (6,734m), beyond to the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m). To the South the Imja Glacier leads the eye up to the massive ice flutings of Baruntse (7,720m) and across the Amphu peaks to the large arrow head of Ama Dablam (6,856m). Down the valley we can see the village of Dingboche, peak of Tawache (6,542m) and way down to the Imja Glacier Lake. We can also see Mera Peak (another famous trekking peak at 6,421m) far away in the distance, superb crystal clear views.
I take a few more pictures on my camera and I clip my safety rope to head up the exposed South ridge. It curves up into the sky and the endorphins are really kicking in now, the feeling that you know you’re almost there is exquisite, step after step – I’m nearly there and bang then I am – summiting 9.30am on the dot. Wow a bit of wind up here but its crystal clear views 360 degrees, huge peaks and mountain architecture stretches for miles, the sublime beauty of the Himalaya is hard to describe, a wonderful place to be, harmonious as you’re surrounded by the biggest mountains in the world. I feel very small but contented and almost privileged to be up here. We snap away taking loads of pictures & video, soaking up the sublime atmosphere and feeling of achievement, Per and I celebrate and the rest of the team join us for the team summit photo. Soon it’s time to lead off down as only half the job is done! We head down the ridge to the fixed rope. I manage to sneak in front of the sloth-like Japanese man and I attach my figure 8 to abseil down. We cruise on down really enjoying the satisfaction of summiting but we know it’s a long way down too but just keep soaking up the wonderful views. We stop at the bottom of the fixed lines for hot chocolate and scroggin, but are soon cold from pausing and there’s a bit of wind cooling us down. The slow Japanese man is now “short-roped” by his guide and is literally being dragged down the 110m pitch which is rather disconcerting, and it looks like he might just die there and then – questionable about how much he is enjoying his experience. We rope up again and get moving, making a good pace down to “Crampon Point”. We arrive and are greeted by Hari (our Sirdar) with hot chocolate and biscuits which we heartily wolf down stuffing our faces. We de-gear and start the descent of the loose rocky path passing ABC and finally arrive in Base Camp exhausted around 2pm – what a day! A well deserved lunch of chapatti, sausages & spaghetti and we retire into our tents crashing out for the arvo absolutely exhausted to the max! We rise again, as hunger returns, for dinner at 6.30pm. The boys have been busy as we’re presented with a glorious dinner of Chicken Curry (nice and spicy), rice and lots of potato and breads. I pull out a celebratory beer (I had purchased 2 from Chukkung, one for the summit and one for the return, the major goals) which I of course share out with my team mates! As we devour our dinner down finishing off when Nima (Cook) brings out a congratulations Chocolate cake to celebrate a successful summit!!! What a great surprise and just amazing what the team has been producing from a basic rudimentary kitchen – great work guys! We’d done it and now it was time to crash out to bed and bask in our glory! Rock on!
For info on trekking/mountaineering Everest Base Camp, Island Peak Mountaineering Expedition check out:
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Email: paul@sunstoneadventures.com
Showing posts with label Island Peak Base Camp. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Island Peak Base Camp. Show all posts
Tuesday, 29 December 2009
Island Peak Expedition Memoirs IX
Sunday 2nd November Island Peak Base Camp (Acclimatise/Rest Day)
Tea (black) arrives early as we lie in bed, a quick wash and we get stuck into a superb breakfast of porridge followed by potato pancakes and luncheon. I have a few extra pancakes with lots of jam just for good measure! I really believe food is a major key when acclimatising to keep the tank fueled up to maintain energy and not get run down at altitude, and we were certainly well treated to tons of food to fill our bellies. After brekkie we gear up and do some training with the ‘jumars’ on a fixed rope. We set up a course of a couple of ropes and practice climbing up using the ascending device called a jumar and abseiling down on our ‘figure eight’ devices. It’s my first time using a ‘jumar’ as I’m usually accustomed to more alpine style and traditional (or sport) rock climbing, placing protection as you move up the rock or mountain, they prove easy to use after a few goes and we’re having fun in the sun. A group of Japanese next to us are also practicing but look like they could do with some walking frames; they must have been all well over sixty years of age and looking rather frail. Lunch is the gorgeous Tibetan style bread with sardines, boiled egg and fried cauliflower pakora. Again some good variety in the menu which helps in keeping up the appetite – just the trick in our preparation. After lunch we perfect our jumaring and then take a small walk just halfway to base camp to again aid in acclimatisation and get the legs and lungs working!. We take in great views across the Imja glacier and its moraine lake. We soon head back to base and as I’m composing a photo of my roomy Per when a huge avalanche rips off the peak behind us thundering its way down to the valley floor in the pinkish hue of the late afternoon sun! It’s a little reminder of where we are – in a serious alpine environment and super close to the power of nature. Dinner time beckons and after a little lie down we get served up soup, pizza and apple pie – spoilt again with great food. Saran really has a great team behind him and we were starting to see the value in this. It’s off to bed at 8pm after continued cups of hot chocolate and another very cold night looms in the thin walled constraints of the tent but anticipation was growing, advanced based camp (ABC) tomorrow. Christina is not feeling well, which is a real bummer as she might not get the opportunity to summit. Fingers crossed for her as we tuck up into our cosy down sleeping bags.
Monday 3rd November Island Peak Base Camp (5,087m) to Advanced Base Camp (5,700m)
I awake after a great sleep right through the night. Tea, a wash and brekkie then we have another practice with the Jumar up the loose scree on the side of the valley. There’s a feeling of good anticipation and an air of excitement as we make a plan to leave for ABC at 2pm. Christina is still not feeling well (fever, stomach pains, vomiting). The decision hangs in the balance whether Christina will go. We have another carb stacking lunch of soup, spaghetti (with mini sausages). Still debate is going on as Christina has two more groups to guide with Saran in the coming weeks so really needs to get better soon. I give encouragement to Christina that she should head up to ABC and then she will at least have the option to go for the summit or head down to base camp, depending on how she feels. The team is ready to go and Christina decides she will come up which is good news. Saran leads off at 2.45pm at a slow and steady pace; again the great views unfold of Imja Glacier and Lhotse Shar. Some cloud starts coming up as the sun is setting creating an inversion and making a special atmosphere as we get one step closer to our ultimate goal. We arrive at ABC and there is an amazing shadow that we pose in capturing our silhouettes on camera. I pull out the classic Karate Kid “Crane” pose…classic! Tea is served and we organize the tent and gear for an easy ‘get up and go’ start. We meet in the kitchen for a basic dinner of Tuna Sandwiches, spaghetti and hot chocolate. I teach the Swedes Charades which makes for lots of giggles and then it’s off to bed for a short sleep in readiness for the summit day start at 2am! We jump into our bags, it’s cold but not desperately so, probably because I’m in my full Gore-Tex with down jacket over the top and boots on in the sleeping bag (using a silk liner). It’s hard to sleep while the adrenaline starts to kick in, and the slightly uneven ground isn’t helping the comfort levels either. I’m not a big pharmaceutical drug taker and don’t usually rely on any but I was given a valium by a girl at base camp and as I’m feeling restless I decide to use it to knock myself out for a few hours. It’s not a strong dose and she reckoned it would only knock me out for 3-4 hours, so I pop the pill and get off to sleep. I would only recommend this if you are confident you are fully acclimatised which I was.
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Tea (black) arrives early as we lie in bed, a quick wash and we get stuck into a superb breakfast of porridge followed by potato pancakes and luncheon. I have a few extra pancakes with lots of jam just for good measure! I really believe food is a major key when acclimatising to keep the tank fueled up to maintain energy and not get run down at altitude, and we were certainly well treated to tons of food to fill our bellies. After brekkie we gear up and do some training with the ‘jumars’ on a fixed rope. We set up a course of a couple of ropes and practice climbing up using the ascending device called a jumar and abseiling down on our ‘figure eight’ devices. It’s my first time using a ‘jumar’ as I’m usually accustomed to more alpine style and traditional (or sport) rock climbing, placing protection as you move up the rock or mountain, they prove easy to use after a few goes and we’re having fun in the sun. A group of Japanese next to us are also practicing but look like they could do with some walking frames; they must have been all well over sixty years of age and looking rather frail. Lunch is the gorgeous Tibetan style bread with sardines, boiled egg and fried cauliflower pakora. Again some good variety in the menu which helps in keeping up the appetite – just the trick in our preparation. After lunch we perfect our jumaring and then take a small walk just halfway to base camp to again aid in acclimatisation and get the legs and lungs working!. We take in great views across the Imja glacier and its moraine lake. We soon head back to base and as I’m composing a photo of my roomy Per when a huge avalanche rips off the peak behind us thundering its way down to the valley floor in the pinkish hue of the late afternoon sun! It’s a little reminder of where we are – in a serious alpine environment and super close to the power of nature. Dinner time beckons and after a little lie down we get served up soup, pizza and apple pie – spoilt again with great food. Saran really has a great team behind him and we were starting to see the value in this. It’s off to bed at 8pm after continued cups of hot chocolate and another very cold night looms in the thin walled constraints of the tent but anticipation was growing, advanced based camp (ABC) tomorrow. Christina is not feeling well, which is a real bummer as she might not get the opportunity to summit. Fingers crossed for her as we tuck up into our cosy down sleeping bags.
Monday 3rd November Island Peak Base Camp (5,087m) to Advanced Base Camp (5,700m)
I awake after a great sleep right through the night. Tea, a wash and brekkie then we have another practice with the Jumar up the loose scree on the side of the valley. There’s a feeling of good anticipation and an air of excitement as we make a plan to leave for ABC at 2pm. Christina is still not feeling well (fever, stomach pains, vomiting). The decision hangs in the balance whether Christina will go. We have another carb stacking lunch of soup, spaghetti (with mini sausages). Still debate is going on as Christina has two more groups to guide with Saran in the coming weeks so really needs to get better soon. I give encouragement to Christina that she should head up to ABC and then she will at least have the option to go for the summit or head down to base camp, depending on how she feels. The team is ready to go and Christina decides she will come up which is good news. Saran leads off at 2.45pm at a slow and steady pace; again the great views unfold of Imja Glacier and Lhotse Shar. Some cloud starts coming up as the sun is setting creating an inversion and making a special atmosphere as we get one step closer to our ultimate goal. We arrive at ABC and there is an amazing shadow that we pose in capturing our silhouettes on camera. I pull out the classic Karate Kid “Crane” pose…classic! Tea is served and we organize the tent and gear for an easy ‘get up and go’ start. We meet in the kitchen for a basic dinner of Tuna Sandwiches, spaghetti and hot chocolate. I teach the Swedes Charades which makes for lots of giggles and then it’s off to bed for a short sleep in readiness for the summit day start at 2am! We jump into our bags, it’s cold but not desperately so, probably because I’m in my full Gore-Tex with down jacket over the top and boots on in the sleeping bag (using a silk liner). It’s hard to sleep while the adrenaline starts to kick in, and the slightly uneven ground isn’t helping the comfort levels either. I’m not a big pharmaceutical drug taker and don’t usually rely on any but I was given a valium by a girl at base camp and as I’m feeling restless I decide to use it to knock myself out for a few hours. It’s not a strong dose and she reckoned it would only knock me out for 3-4 hours, so I pop the pill and get off to sleep. I would only recommend this if you are confident you are fully acclimatised which I was.
www.sunstoneadventures.com
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