Everest Base Camp Trek & Kala Pattar

A good climb up the dusty steep track to Namche we honed in our first acclimatisation goal to stay 2 nights at the busy little trading bazaar. It was great to get there and have a decent espresso coffee and chocolate brownies at the Everest Bakery - yumlicious! The next day (a rest day) we carted ourselves up the relatively steep track to Everest View Hotel to let our bodies feel some altitude and return down to sleep. Lovely hot chocolate on the balcony with sublime views of Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8386, Peak38 4587 and Ama Dablam 6812 - what a beauty of a day and great 'posi' for a drink or lunch!

The next day it was time to set off to the beautiful Monastery of Tengboche to see the Monks perform their Mantras. Again a steep climb after lunch but well rewarded as we pulled into town greeted by the beautiful chortens and rich coulurs of the temple. Again we found the 'Lavazza' sign and it was another last chance for real coffee. A great little guesthouse and an early rise to capture the first of the sun and the young monks welcoming in the morning blowing Conch Shells. For cool video please see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcQsnI57lMA

We trekked on through Deboche and winding our way up to Shomare and nearing our next acllimatisation spot of Dingboche at 4420m where, as entering we received our first views of the 6119m East Lobouche Peak. Our group was divided into 3 whom were heading to EBC (Everest Base Camp) and a couple of climbers to make their first ascent of this classic 6000m peak.

Another 'Rest Day' although local guide and slave driver Super Subbaman had a half day trek planned up the Nankhanshang ridge fopr us which takes you up to 4800m although you can go to the peak at 5100m which was perfect acllimatisation for the Lobouche climbers. I was very lucky to see a huge Golden Eagle making an awesome flight right over me, searching for prey. A good climb in gorgeous weather and it was down to chill out, do some washing of socks/gruds etc and a spot of reading. For lunch I tried some unusual fermented cheese that was wrapped up in savoury pancakes with garlic & chilli and tasted like blue vein cheese - delicious! We were sharing the lodge with Russell Brice's Himalaya Experience group which was made of both clients looking to climb Mount Everest and trekker heading to EBC in support of them. Was nice to catch up with legendary Mountain Guide 'Woody' from Queenstown,NZ whom I met skiing in Gulmarg, Kashmir just a month previously! It's a small old world!

We cut across the hill, the next morning, overlooking Pheriche and a huge braided river valley which led up to views of Taweche, Cholatse and across to Lobouche Peak. Tea at Lukla and up through the Everest Memorials (in memory of past Everest climbers) and up to Lobouche, where at close to 5000m the air was beginning to thin rapidly. The next day it was all on, the push to Gorak Shep and onto the iconic Everest Base Camp. We toiled through the moraine, again with blazing sun coming down on us, sucking up as much water as possible to counter that thinning air. We were all on good form after some good sleeps and looked to be all on track! A final push and Mats, Steve and Emma and the rest of us looked in good form. We wound our way up through the moonlike landscape, undulating up and down with surreal views of the Khumbu Glacier that curves around past EBC and up into the legendary risky Khumbu Icefall. Views of Everest start (only viewed on approach to EBC nad are obscured when you are actually there) as we finally reached the 5364m cairn and start of Everest Base Camp - we'd made it and took some great celebratory photos/videos and a wee celebration ensued.

The mission wasn't quite complete with the fantastic viewpoint of Kala Pattar (5545m) yet to be tackled the next day. A lot of people get up for sunrise but I’m a fan of a little later, as it's less cold and the photos are a lot better with the sun rising over mighty Mount Everest and the huge Nuptse wall. Steve, my Aussie roomy (yes be careful of your wallet with those Aussies ;-) had a bad sleep but showed good determination to give it a crack. I was to climb Lobouche so decided to head off in front and give the body & lungs a bit of a push which proved great as I beat my 70 minute record getting to the high point in 62 minutes. The rest of the group did a great slow & steady effort reaching an hour later which was a good effort for veterans and rookie trekkers alike. The views were extremely rewarding and I would always recommend going to both EBC & KP as they each have their own unique, amazing features of mind-blowing landscapes.

Well done guys & gals what a great effort and Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar are certainly no walk in the park - just ask anyone who's completed them. It takes a tough, focused effort with many elements having to slot into place to get the result and achieve the goal. Now we just had to get down!

Thanks to all the team of Saran, Nima, Om and clients: Mats, Emma and Steve - a superb time had by all!

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Island Peak Mountaineering Expedition Memoirs II

Monday 20th October – Phakding (2,650m) to Monjo (2,815m)

I’m still feeling crap and it has now spread to the chest – blerg! After a huge sleep and lazy start I walk up the valley following the thunderous Dudh Kosi River with incredible views of the towering Thamserku. I arrive at “Doma Lodge” in Monjo around midday and kick back reading in the blazing sun before an afternoon siesta to replenish the energy levels. A nice comfortable room and hot shower then time for Dahl Bhaat and good Apple Pie – mmmnnnnn the pleasures of comfort food!

Tuesday 21st October – Monjo (2,815m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

A big day a head – the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar! I get an early start with big brekkie of 2 X boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and honey porridge. I slowly slog to Namche Bazaar, taking 2.5 hours arriving earlier than predicted and I’m feeling ok, I’ve gained this key acclimatization point and can now chill out for the next couple of days. It’s nice to be up here with the hustle and bustle of the market bazaar. I score a cheap place and from the surrounding evidence of Yak Dung it seems to be some kind of Yak drivers stop! It’s very homely which is rare for the busy Bazaar and will do the trick for some well needed recovery before I head up further. It’s perched on the eastern side and has great views over the sunny Namche Bowl. Nice family but a small pesky dog starts yapping at me, oh well can’t have it all! I seem to be the only “gora” (foreigner) staying here with the yak herders and yaks - well it’s about the experience we’re all searching for I think to myself! I head down to the legendary Everest Bakery and score a great seat in the sun, chomping on my Yak Sizzler with yummy mushroom sauce. It’s quite rich and gamey, and can be a little tough sometimes, not this bad boy, it’s juicy and tender. I head back for a siesta and a nice dinner (tuna, vege and rice) before settling in for an early night to break this cold. Some scratchy sounds in the walls, only rats I think to myself as long as they leave me alone to sleep, which they do!

www.sunstoneadventures.com

The Famous Snowdonia Pub remembers Everest legends

The famous Pen-Y-Gwryd pub is renowned for its connection with the successful mountain climbing expeditions of Mount Everest in 1953 and Kanchenjunga in 1955.

The pub dates back to 1811 as a farm house that became a public house serving the Llanberis area in Snowdonia, North Wales. The original ‘Climbers Club’ has its roots here being born over a few pints back in the day - in 1898. In 1922 the Pen-Y-Gwryd became a Mountain Rescue post and you can still see the plaque attached on the pub’s frontage (right hand side) when entering. This was closely tied to 2 other mountain rescue posts located in Ogwen’s cottage (now Ogwen Valley mountain rescue center) and Plas y Brenin (now the outdoors pursuits training center).

The hotel really gained its reputation due to the British Expeditions of Everest 1953 and Kanchenjunga 1955 who utilised the area to train and test oxygen equipment before embarking on their mountaineering missions. As you walk in and go to the right there is hiking boots string from the ceiling and a magnificent black & white print of Hillary & Tenzing sipping Chai on the Everest climb, You can still see the expedition party’s signatures on the ceiling on the left hand side of the pub (when entering). This includes the famous kiwi legend Edmund Hillary, British Everest leader John Hunt and Sir Christopher Bonnington who was successful on Kanchenjunga in 1955.

But what the Pen-Y-Gwryd is really renowned for is the classic ‘snug’ which is situated behind the bar and you can only enter it by ducking through the kitchen. If you’re a resident you are allowed to freely enjoy the sung with its classic memorabilia of the Everest expedition, if you’ve just rocked up to the pub you’ll need to have a word and ‘talk your way in’ for a 5 minute butchers. It has a great cabinet which has the rope which was used by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay to belay each other, crampons and other kit & equipment that was used to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Other trinkets and bits & pieces are shown with lots of photos and memorials are all displayed in a lovely wood panelled room which for any Everest aficionado is just great. A great way to enjoy a well earned dink after coming off the hill! Go check it out and soak up the classic atmosphere!

For some video footage inside the pub:

http://www.facebook.com/#/pages/Sunstone-Adventures-Limited/125604380964?ref=mf

For info on Trekking & Mountaineering in the Everest region please see Sunstone Adventures new website on: http://www.sunstoneadventures.com/