Friday 24th October Deboche to Dingboche (4,420m)
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
Saturday 25th October Dingboche (4,420m) Acclimatisation Day
I awake to yet another glorious day and Climb up Nankartshang peak (5,040m), the ridge behind Dingboche – with superb views of the surrounding peak and valleys from up there! I can see Island Peak, so named because it was likened to an Island in a glacial sea of ice. There is also awesome view of the two lakes below Ama Dablam. Glorious Sunshine bakes me and I even have my shorts and T-shirt on, to some American’s disgust…of course I had full Gore-Tex gear in my pack but make hay while the sun shines I think to myself! It’s a fair old steep grunt and it feels good to get the lungs working at a bit of altitude in preparation. The views are just sublime and it’s great to get over the magic 5000 meter mark! I return back to the suntrap that is the courtyard in my teahouse; some clouds come in late which adds to the atmosphere as I enjoy my book and chai.
Sunday 26th October Dingboche (4,420m) to Thukla (4,500m)
I Tramp across to Thukla in the awakening dawn after a nice early brekkie hanging out with the Sherpas by the fire in the kitchen. A lovely morning overlooking Pheriche (where the Himalayan Rescue Association is based) and I Cross the roaring milky glacier river over a small wooden bridge arriving at Thukla. While having a chai break I meet a nice guy - Ian from New York and decide to share a room with him up in my next destination, Lobouche. I book into a room in Thukla, dump my gear and hike up to Lobouche (to acclimatise) and book anther room (The “Eco Lodge”) for the next night as the trek starts to bottleneck towards EBC. We return to Thukla and meet “team America”. After 5 beers with Jessie and Ian, having a great laugh (a few people looking on thinking we’re completely mad drinking at this altitude) we hit the hay falling into a drunken stupa!
Monday 27th October Thukla (4,500m) to Lobouche (4,930m)
A steep start after tea and porridge we pace up to Lobouche, drop our gear at the “Eco Lodge” and continue hiking up to Gorak Shep, the last gathering of teahouses before EBC. After lunch at Gorak Shep we take in the beautiful bluebird views of the surrounding majestic peaks – Pumori, the Nupste Wall and Lhotse. We Drop back down the valley to Loboche and relax with some reading. I have traded my book with Ian’s “3 Cups of Tea” about an American ER nurse called Greg Mortenson who builds 55 schools in Pakistan – an admirable read. There’s anticipation at the dinner table as we’re nearing EBC, a good feed of Tuna spaghetti and it’s off off to bed with excitement building.
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Friday, 25 December 2009
Thursday, 24 December 2009
Merry Christmas Sunstoners
Have a very merry Christmas and great new year 2010!
See you in the Himalayas!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
See you in the Himalayas!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Island Peak Memoirs V
Friday 24th October Deboche to Dingboche (4,420m)
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
Monday, 21 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs IV
Thursday 23rd October – Namche (3,440m) to Deboche
I awake to another beautiful day – feeling better and pretty soon have wonderful views of Everest as I get myself on the track and start to move my way up again. I have lunch at Phagding after crossing a beautiful river (Dudh Kosi) on a swing bridge as laden yaks pass me by. After a steep, hard slog I take in dramatic views of Thamserku and the majestic Ama Dablam eventually reaching the magical monastery village of Tengboche. Unfortunately it’s fully booked up by trekkers in this busy period so I head my way down to the idyllic little spot of Deboche. A place where legendary Russian Climber Anatoli Boukreev apparently frequented in his rest days acclimatising for many Everest expeditions over the years. Apparently he would come right down this low to give his body a real chance to recover at lower altitude rather than EBC (Everest Base Camp) where most climbers drop down to rest. The Ama Dablam lodge is baked in bright sunshine, so I take a nice seat, reading and soaking up the Vitamin D and sublime mountain vista all around me. It is fairly short-lived however as some late afternoon clouds arrive. I Chat with a British father and son who are a little clueless to where they’ve actually visited (obviously guided and not paying too much attention) and discover they will also be climbing Island Peak. They had envisaged the summit day to be 6-7 hours I advise them that 12-15 hours was a more realistic target! A pleasant chat though and its better they hear it from me now than discover that later, on the mountain! I have a nice little walk to the nearby nunnery and just before dusk spot one of the funny large ground birds – the Tibetan Snow cock and get a glimpse of a shy Musk Deer. Dinner is more Dahl Bhatt with lots of Chai (milky sweet tea) to wash it down by the cosy fire – ‘Chai-dration’ to the max!!!!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
I awake to another beautiful day – feeling better and pretty soon have wonderful views of Everest as I get myself on the track and start to move my way up again. I have lunch at Phagding after crossing a beautiful river (Dudh Kosi) on a swing bridge as laden yaks pass me by. After a steep, hard slog I take in dramatic views of Thamserku and the majestic Ama Dablam eventually reaching the magical monastery village of Tengboche. Unfortunately it’s fully booked up by trekkers in this busy period so I head my way down to the idyllic little spot of Deboche. A place where legendary Russian Climber Anatoli Boukreev apparently frequented in his rest days acclimatising for many Everest expeditions over the years. Apparently he would come right down this low to give his body a real chance to recover at lower altitude rather than EBC (Everest Base Camp) where most climbers drop down to rest. The Ama Dablam lodge is baked in bright sunshine, so I take a nice seat, reading and soaking up the Vitamin D and sublime mountain vista all around me. It is fairly short-lived however as some late afternoon clouds arrive. I Chat with a British father and son who are a little clueless to where they’ve actually visited (obviously guided and not paying too much attention) and discover they will also be climbing Island Peak. They had envisaged the summit day to be 6-7 hours I advise them that 12-15 hours was a more realistic target! A pleasant chat though and its better they hear it from me now than discover that later, on the mountain! I have a nice little walk to the nearby nunnery and just before dusk spot one of the funny large ground birds – the Tibetan Snow cock and get a glimpse of a shy Musk Deer. Dinner is more Dahl Bhatt with lots of Chai (milky sweet tea) to wash it down by the cosy fire – ‘Chai-dration’ to the max!!!!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Tuesday, 15 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs III
Wednesday 22nd October – Namche Bazaar (3,440m) Acclimatisation Day
An early start as I’m feeling better, tea and I wander up around the gompa above my guesthouse. Porridge and off to a great viewpoint and finally the stunning views of the big bopper – Mount Everest - wow! The big black mass of Everest Pokes out in its full glory backed by a deep blue sky with its classic white plume, jet streaming off into the distance! I’m really here! Superb views also of Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam & Thamserku (also a first ascent for Sir Edmund Hillary of NZ). I don’t bother with the hike to Everest Hotel (apparently tea on the balcony is very convivial) but head back to the bakery instead for Cappuccino (not bad but not Italy), garlic soup & bread and postcard writing in the beautiful sunshine. The weather really is sublime in this settled spring period – just the best! I treat myself to a full head shave from the barber which is precise and luxurious;up to the normal high standard. Although you do pay a premium at this altitude but it’s all worth it! A few emails, banking and some business to attend to (URL renewal on one of my websites) and I’m feeling organised and looking like a rock star! Lunchtime is calling – Pizza?
www.sunstoneadventures.com
An early start as I’m feeling better, tea and I wander up around the gompa above my guesthouse. Porridge and off to a great viewpoint and finally the stunning views of the big bopper – Mount Everest - wow! The big black mass of Everest Pokes out in its full glory backed by a deep blue sky with its classic white plume, jet streaming off into the distance! I’m really here! Superb views also of Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam & Thamserku (also a first ascent for Sir Edmund Hillary of NZ). I don’t bother with the hike to Everest Hotel (apparently tea on the balcony is very convivial) but head back to the bakery instead for Cappuccino (not bad but not Italy), garlic soup & bread and postcard writing in the beautiful sunshine. The weather really is sublime in this settled spring period – just the best! I treat myself to a full head shave from the barber which is precise and luxurious;up to the normal high standard. Although you do pay a premium at this altitude but it’s all worth it! A few emails, banking and some business to attend to (URL renewal on one of my websites) and I’m feeling organised and looking like a rock star! Lunchtime is calling – Pizza?
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Monday, 14 December 2009
Island Peak Mountaineering Expedition Memoirs II
Monday 20th October – Phakding (2,650m) to Monjo (2,815m)
I’m still feeling crap and it has now spread to the chest – blerg! After a huge sleep and lazy start I walk up the valley following the thunderous Dudh Kosi River with incredible views of the towering Thamserku. I arrive at “Doma Lodge” in Monjo around midday and kick back reading in the blazing sun before an afternoon siesta to replenish the energy levels. A nice comfortable room and hot shower then time for Dahl Bhaat and good Apple Pie – mmmnnnnn the pleasures of comfort food!
Tuesday 21st October – Monjo (2,815m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
A big day a head – the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar! I get an early start with big brekkie of 2 X boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and honey porridge. I slowly slog to Namche Bazaar, taking 2.5 hours arriving earlier than predicted and I’m feeling ok, I’ve gained this key acclimatization point and can now chill out for the next couple of days. It’s nice to be up here with the hustle and bustle of the market bazaar. I score a cheap place and from the surrounding evidence of Yak Dung it seems to be some kind of Yak drivers stop! It’s very homely which is rare for the busy Bazaar and will do the trick for some well needed recovery before I head up further. It’s perched on the eastern side and has great views over the sunny Namche Bowl. Nice family but a small pesky dog starts yapping at me, oh well can’t have it all! I seem to be the only “gora” (foreigner) staying here with the yak herders and yaks - well it’s about the experience we’re all searching for I think to myself! I head down to the legendary Everest Bakery and score a great seat in the sun, chomping on my Yak Sizzler with yummy mushroom sauce. It’s quite rich and gamey, and can be a little tough sometimes, not this bad boy, it’s juicy and tender. I head back for a siesta and a nice dinner (tuna, vege and rice) before settling in for an early night to break this cold. Some scratchy sounds in the walls, only rats I think to myself as long as they leave me alone to sleep, which they do!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Monday 20th October – Phakding (2,650m) to Monjo (2,815m)
I’m still feeling crap and it has now spread to the chest – blerg! After a huge sleep and lazy start I walk up the valley following the thunderous Dudh Kosi River with incredible views of the towering Thamserku. I arrive at “Doma Lodge” in Monjo around midday and kick back reading in the blazing sun before an afternoon siesta to replenish the energy levels. A nice comfortable room and hot shower then time for Dahl Bhaat and good Apple Pie – mmmnnnnn the pleasures of comfort food!
Tuesday 21st October – Monjo (2,815m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
A big day a head – the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar! I get an early start with big brekkie of 2 X boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and honey porridge. I slowly slog to Namche Bazaar, taking 2.5 hours arriving earlier than predicted and I’m feeling ok, I’ve gained this key acclimatization point and can now chill out for the next couple of days. It’s nice to be up here with the hustle and bustle of the market bazaar. I score a cheap place and from the surrounding evidence of Yak Dung it seems to be some kind of Yak drivers stop! It’s very homely which is rare for the busy Bazaar and will do the trick for some well needed recovery before I head up further. It’s perched on the eastern side and has great views over the sunny Namche Bowl. Nice family but a small pesky dog starts yapping at me, oh well can’t have it all! I seem to be the only “gora” (foreigner) staying here with the yak herders and yaks - well it’s about the experience we’re all searching for I think to myself! I head down to the legendary Everest Bakery and score a great seat in the sun, chomping on my Yak Sizzler with yummy mushroom sauce. It’s quite rich and gamey, and can be a little tough sometimes, not this bad boy, it’s juicy and tender. I head back for a siesta and a nice dinner (tuna, vege and rice) before settling in for an early night to break this cold. Some scratchy sounds in the walls, only rats I think to myself as long as they leave me alone to sleep, which they do!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Sunday, 13 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs
Memoirs of Island Peak Expedition and Everest Base Camp Trek
Sunday 19th October – Lukla (2,830m) to Phakding (2,650m)
Clear skies and great views from my friend Steve’s place in outer Kathmandu. It’s the first day he’s been able to see the Himalayas, he remarks, as we look out his kitchen window towards the mighty range. Looks like I got lucky as the Lukla flight can be plagued with bad weather thus causing delays and postponements – all part of the adventure I guess! It would be great to get this flight done and dusted as its reputation precedes itself i.e. landing on a tiny uphill runway that only stretches a short 100m up the hillside. My luck continues; after checking in I am somehow get on a flight leaving 7.20am rather than the scheduled 7.45am flight…different airline, which is a bit odd but hey I’m definitely not complaining and we’re all going the same place! I am shoved towards the plane having to take my whole hiking pack on as hand luggage but I bundle it in and we’re off! Surrounded by Japanese with their cameras clicking away, the views are surreal – finally I was winging my way up to the start of my journey and would get on the infamous Everest Highway! We approach the landing and although it’s a little daunting, we touchdown and ease up the slope turning in towards the main (and only) airport building in Lukla. I was on my way hiking on the famous Everest Trek to Phakding where I stayed at the “Namaste Lodge”. I was feeling under the weather with a cold so decided to cruise these next few days and try and get better before getting to higher altitude! I hammered the garlic/chili soup and lemon & ginger teas – hopefully I’ll be better in a few days!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Sunday 19th October – Lukla (2,830m) to Phakding (2,650m)
Clear skies and great views from my friend Steve’s place in outer Kathmandu. It’s the first day he’s been able to see the Himalayas, he remarks, as we look out his kitchen window towards the mighty range. Looks like I got lucky as the Lukla flight can be plagued with bad weather thus causing delays and postponements – all part of the adventure I guess! It would be great to get this flight done and dusted as its reputation precedes itself i.e. landing on a tiny uphill runway that only stretches a short 100m up the hillside. My luck continues; after checking in I am somehow get on a flight leaving 7.20am rather than the scheduled 7.45am flight…different airline, which is a bit odd but hey I’m definitely not complaining and we’re all going the same place! I am shoved towards the plane having to take my whole hiking pack on as hand luggage but I bundle it in and we’re off! Surrounded by Japanese with their cameras clicking away, the views are surreal – finally I was winging my way up to the start of my journey and would get on the infamous Everest Highway! We approach the landing and although it’s a little daunting, we touchdown and ease up the slope turning in towards the main (and only) airport building in Lukla. I was on my way hiking on the famous Everest Trek to Phakding where I stayed at the “Namaste Lodge”. I was feeling under the weather with a cold so decided to cruise these next few days and try and get better before getting to higher altitude! I hammered the garlic/chili soup and lemon & ginger teas – hopefully I’ll be better in a few days!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
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