A good climb up the dusty steep track to Namche we honed in our first acclimatisation goal to stay 2 nights at the busy little trading bazaar. It was great to get there and have a decent espresso coffee and chocolate brownies at the Everest Bakery - yumlicious! The next day (a rest day) we carted ourselves up the relatively steep track to Everest View Hotel to let our bodies feel some altitude and return down to sleep. Lovely hot chocolate on the balcony with sublime views of Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8386, Peak38 4587 and Ama Dablam 6812 - what a beauty of a day and great 'posi' for a drink or lunch!
The next day it was time to set off to the beautiful Monastery of Tengboche to see the Monks perform their Mantras. Again a steep climb after lunch but well rewarded as we pulled into town greeted by the beautiful chortens and rich coulurs of the temple. Again we found the 'Lavazza' sign and it was another last chance for real coffee. A great little guesthouse and an early rise to capture the first of the sun and the young monks welcoming in the morning blowing Conch Shells. For cool video please see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcQsnI57lMA
We trekked on through Deboche and winding our way up to Shomare and nearing our next acllimatisation spot of Dingboche at 4420m where, as entering we received our first views of the 6119m East Lobouche Peak. Our group was divided into 3 whom were heading to EBC (Everest Base Camp) and a couple of climbers to make their first ascent of this classic 6000m peak.
Another 'Rest Day' although local guide and slave driver Super Subbaman had a half day trek planned up the Nankhanshang ridge fopr us which takes you up to 4800m although you can go to the peak at 5100m which was perfect acllimatisation for the Lobouche climbers. I was very lucky to see a huge Golden Eagle making an awesome flight right over me, searching for prey. A good climb in gorgeous weather and it was down to chill out, do some washing of socks/gruds etc and a spot of reading. For lunch I tried some unusual fermented cheese that was wrapped up in savoury pancakes with garlic & chilli and tasted like blue vein cheese - delicious! We were sharing the lodge with Russell Brice's Himalaya Experience group which was made of both clients looking to climb Mount Everest and trekker heading to EBC in support of them. Was nice to catch up with legendary Mountain Guide 'Woody' from Queenstown,NZ whom I met skiing in Gulmarg, Kashmir just a month previously! It's a small old world!
We cut across the hill, the next morning, overlooking Pheriche and a huge braided river valley which led up to views of Taweche, Cholatse and across to Lobouche Peak. Tea at Lukla and up through the Everest Memorials (in memory of past Everest climbers) and up to Lobouche, where at close to 5000m the air was beginning to thin rapidly. The next day it was all on, the push to Gorak Shep and onto the iconic Everest Base Camp. We toiled through the moraine, again with blazing sun coming down on us, sucking up as much water as possible to counter that thinning air. We were all on good form after some good sleeps and looked to be all on track! A final push and Mats, Steve and Emma and the rest of us looked in good form. We wound our way up through the moonlike landscape, undulating up and down with surreal views of the Khumbu Glacier that curves around past EBC and up into the legendary risky Khumbu Icefall. Views of Everest start (only viewed on approach to EBC nad are obscured when you are actually there) as we finally reached the 5364m cairn and start of Everest Base Camp - we'd made it and took some great celebratory photos/videos and a wee celebration ensued.
The mission wasn't quite complete with the fantastic viewpoint of Kala Pattar (5545m) yet to be tackled the next day. A lot of people get up for sunrise but I’m a fan of a little later, as it's less cold and the photos are a lot better with the sun rising over mighty Mount Everest and the huge Nuptse wall. Steve, my Aussie roomy (yes be careful of your wallet with those Aussies ;-) had a bad sleep but showed good determination to give it a crack. I was to climb Lobouche so decided to head off in front and give the body & lungs a bit of a push which proved great as I beat my 70 minute record getting to the high point in 62 minutes. The rest of the group did a great slow & steady effort reaching an hour later which was a good effort for veterans and rookie trekkers alike. The views were extremely rewarding and I would always recommend going to both EBC & KP as they each have their own unique, amazing features of mind-blowing landscapes.
Well done guys & gals what a great effort and Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar are certainly no walk in the park - just ask anyone who's completed them. It takes a tough, focused effort with many elements having to slot into place to get the result and achieve the goal. Now we just had to get down!
Thanks to all the team of Saran, Nima, Om and clients: Mats, Emma and Steve - a superb time had by all!
www.sunstoneadventures
Showing posts with label Everest Base Camp Trek. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Everest Base Camp Trek. Show all posts
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Friday, 2 April 2010
Helicopter ride to Lukla with some pre-flight sightseeing in Kathmandu
After catching up with friends Saran (Nepalese mountain guide) and Steve (ex-pat Aussie and Nepali language scholar) in Kathmandu for lunch it was great to meet the trekking group. A lovely traditional Nepali welcome dinner with great food (royal dahl bhat) and traditional dancing we all got acquainted with Emma (swede), Mats (swede) and Steve (Aussie) over some Raksi (local rice wine). The group were all planned to trek to Everest Base Camp, with Steve heading off to Gokyo Lakes, Emma & Mats returning to Namche and Sarran and I to climb 6119m Lobouche Peak with support from expedition Sherpas. Interestingly Lobouche is a classic 6000m peak used for acclimatising for Mount Everest expeditions and is one of the most technical trekking peaks with 250-300m of steepe, fixed rope ice climbing. I had bumnped into legendary Kiwi mountain guide 'Woody' who was working for Russell Brice's Himalaya Experience and they were planning to summit Lobouche in preparation for an Everest summit attempt. If successful this would be Woody's 14th Everest summit - pretty full on!
A city tour was planned the next day and we met up 9am setting off in the mini bus to Boudinath Stupa, a short drive from thamel in Kathmandu. It's an amazing stupa with the characteristic 'buddha eyes' and huge white dome-like body surrounded by temples and yes the commerce side of things - tourist shops! We were given an excellent talk and tour by our guide Nabeen and learnt about the wider history of Buddha and how this related to Boudinath. We learnt about the traditional Thanka paintings - mandalas and the wheel of life and how they are painstakingly crafted over months and sometimes years!
After a good look around it was off to Durbar Square in old Kathmandu. An ice cream and a look at some of the beautiful temples, one of which had some rather intricately carved sexual positions from what they call'lion style' (doggy style to us Westerners) to 'the wheel barrow' and so on - a good laugh had by all. That night we chilled out and made last minute purchases of supplies (snickers and bounty bars for me) and had a nice relax over a few beers.
The airport over the next couple of days was the usual chaos and we found ourselves waiting, being pushed back because of delays (the day before) and losing the 'calm weather window'. So by midday the wind had risen above the 12knots in Lukla(apparently this is the benchmark of wind knots they won't fly over). Frustration was starting to mount after being put on the runway bus several times and returning to the departure lounge. It was obvious it was not our day and better to try and secure a morning flight slot. Off to 'fire and ice' for the best pizza in Thamel and to Kilroy's that evening for more comfort food feasting!
Take 2 and things went from bad to worse with a plane breaking down and not much action of planes flying to Lukla at all. Classic disinformation and time was ticking for clients on an agenda - we needed to get out of here! Mats (Swede) decided enough was enough and hired a helicopter (knowing the rest of us were not in a position to fork out the $600USD each) he spoke to us saying there was no obligation but there was however, 4 available seats on the chopper if we were keen! Of course we took up this very generous offer and bailed from the dysfunctional mess humming our way to Lukla on the giant mechanical insect. As thanks I bought him 'touching the void' by Joe Sumpson as I had discovered, in previous conversation he hadn't read it and he was delighted by the gift.
We were off buzzing over the dry, mountainous landscape with cut gorges from silky relecting rivers - what a way to start trekking to Everest Base Camp by an adrenaline filled 50 minute chopper ride! We touched down in Lukla and we were finally on the trail tramping our way to Phakding , sucking in the clean mountain air, taking on the dramatic environs of the Everest Highway and soon slurping on tea as we pulled into our teahouse! Thanks again Mats - hero of the day! Rock on!
Vids to follow on Sunstone Facebook page.
www.sunstoneadventures.com
A city tour was planned the next day and we met up 9am setting off in the mini bus to Boudinath Stupa, a short drive from thamel in Kathmandu. It's an amazing stupa with the characteristic 'buddha eyes' and huge white dome-like body surrounded by temples and yes the commerce side of things - tourist shops! We were given an excellent talk and tour by our guide Nabeen and learnt about the wider history of Buddha and how this related to Boudinath. We learnt about the traditional Thanka paintings - mandalas and the wheel of life and how they are painstakingly crafted over months and sometimes years!
After a good look around it was off to Durbar Square in old Kathmandu. An ice cream and a look at some of the beautiful temples, one of which had some rather intricately carved sexual positions from what they call'lion style' (doggy style to us Westerners) to 'the wheel barrow' and so on - a good laugh had by all. That night we chilled out and made last minute purchases of supplies (snickers and bounty bars for me) and had a nice relax over a few beers.
The airport over the next couple of days was the usual chaos and we found ourselves waiting, being pushed back because of delays (the day before) and losing the 'calm weather window'. So by midday the wind had risen above the 12knots in Lukla(apparently this is the benchmark of wind knots they won't fly over). Frustration was starting to mount after being put on the runway bus several times and returning to the departure lounge. It was obvious it was not our day and better to try and secure a morning flight slot. Off to 'fire and ice' for the best pizza in Thamel and to Kilroy's that evening for more comfort food feasting!
Take 2 and things went from bad to worse with a plane breaking down and not much action of planes flying to Lukla at all. Classic disinformation and time was ticking for clients on an agenda - we needed to get out of here! Mats (Swede) decided enough was enough and hired a helicopter (knowing the rest of us were not in a position to fork out the $600USD each) he spoke to us saying there was no obligation but there was however, 4 available seats on the chopper if we were keen! Of course we took up this very generous offer and bailed from the dysfunctional mess humming our way to Lukla on the giant mechanical insect. As thanks I bought him 'touching the void' by Joe Sumpson as I had discovered, in previous conversation he hadn't read it and he was delighted by the gift.
We were off buzzing over the dry, mountainous landscape with cut gorges from silky relecting rivers - what a way to start trekking to Everest Base Camp by an adrenaline filled 50 minute chopper ride! We touched down in Lukla and we were finally on the trail tramping our way to Phakding , sucking in the clean mountain air, taking on the dramatic environs of the Everest Highway and soon slurping on tea as we pulled into our teahouse! Thanks again Mats - hero of the day! Rock on!
Vids to follow on Sunstone Facebook page.
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Tuesday, 29 December 2009
Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb Memoirs Part VIII
Thursday 30th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) to Everest Base Camp (5,380m) to Dingboche (4,420m)
An early start with Ian and we put on a good pace as we race up to EBC. The sun is shining and the sky is blue, what a surprise, this autumn weather is truly the best time to visit the Himalayas for clarity of view. As we approach, views of huge towering Seracs on the Khumbu Glacier, as we dodge around holes in the glacier, creaking ice and generally pretty rough morraine terrain. It’s great having a look around, only one expedition here with a small grouping of tents. I stumble across a 1960’s Oxygen Canister amongst the tents of the Korean expedition. This is certainly not the optimum time for climbing Everest as the excellent weather window, high on the mountain occurs in May. As we’re gazing up the Khumbu icefall small ice falls and avalanches pour down giving an air of seriousness. It’s great to be here a the place it all happens, at the heart of some many adventure stories I’ve read and a good feeling of achievement washes over me! We head down crisscrossing the undulating moraine for lunch at Gorak Shep. We part company as Ian is heading down to Pheriche and I will meet the expedition team in Dingboche. I head off reaching Lobouche 2.45pm and onto Thukla 4pm branching across to Dingboche arriving 5.15pm just before dark. I jump in the excellent outdoor shower and then officially meet up and join the expedition team – Team Sweden plus the Kiwi! It’s great to have some good yarns with Ola, father of Freddy (19 years old) and Per who is now my roommate. Ola had climbed Island Peak a couple of years ago and wanted to share the experience with Freddy, so brought him back to have a crack at it, which was just great!
Friday 31st October Dingboche (4,420m) to Chukkung (4,720m)
I woke after a great sleep to our Sirdar Nima bringing me morning tea and a bowl of warm water to wash with, just great. I head up the road and quickly log-in on email (20 rupees per minute would you believe compared to 20 rupees per hour back in Kathmandu!) but hey it’s over 4000m in the Himalayas! I write a quick email to Ma & Pa and Kitty (my girlfriend at the time) and am delighted to also receive some news from my last recruitment company that a candidate I was working closely with has secured a role that I had previously arranged an interview for, isn’t technology amazing! We start Trekking leisurely up to Chukkung, the beautiful valley unfolds and there’s a feeling of excitement to be part of a team that will share the experience of the Island Peak mission. I did some final washing of clothes and chat with Ola, Freddy, Per and Christina as we all look forward to heading up to Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow. I have a little siesta; listening to my Ipod and some reading getting some good chill time in before the hard work starts again! A nice cosy warm hut and a great feed of Dahl Bhat with the team geeling and excited – Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow – bring it on!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
An early start with Ian and we put on a good pace as we race up to EBC. The sun is shining and the sky is blue, what a surprise, this autumn weather is truly the best time to visit the Himalayas for clarity of view. As we approach, views of huge towering Seracs on the Khumbu Glacier, as we dodge around holes in the glacier, creaking ice and generally pretty rough morraine terrain. It’s great having a look around, only one expedition here with a small grouping of tents. I stumble across a 1960’s Oxygen Canister amongst the tents of the Korean expedition. This is certainly not the optimum time for climbing Everest as the excellent weather window, high on the mountain occurs in May. As we’re gazing up the Khumbu icefall small ice falls and avalanches pour down giving an air of seriousness. It’s great to be here a the place it all happens, at the heart of some many adventure stories I’ve read and a good feeling of achievement washes over me! We head down crisscrossing the undulating moraine for lunch at Gorak Shep. We part company as Ian is heading down to Pheriche and I will meet the expedition team in Dingboche. I head off reaching Lobouche 2.45pm and onto Thukla 4pm branching across to Dingboche arriving 5.15pm just before dark. I jump in the excellent outdoor shower and then officially meet up and join the expedition team – Team Sweden plus the Kiwi! It’s great to have some good yarns with Ola, father of Freddy (19 years old) and Per who is now my roommate. Ola had climbed Island Peak a couple of years ago and wanted to share the experience with Freddy, so brought him back to have a crack at it, which was just great!
Friday 31st October Dingboche (4,420m) to Chukkung (4,720m)
I woke after a great sleep to our Sirdar Nima bringing me morning tea and a bowl of warm water to wash with, just great. I head up the road and quickly log-in on email (20 rupees per minute would you believe compared to 20 rupees per hour back in Kathmandu!) but hey it’s over 4000m in the Himalayas! I write a quick email to Ma & Pa and Kitty (my girlfriend at the time) and am delighted to also receive some news from my last recruitment company that a candidate I was working closely with has secured a role that I had previously arranged an interview for, isn’t technology amazing! We start Trekking leisurely up to Chukkung, the beautiful valley unfolds and there’s a feeling of excitement to be part of a team that will share the experience of the Island Peak mission. I did some final washing of clothes and chat with Ola, Freddy, Per and Christina as we all look forward to heading up to Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow. I have a little siesta; listening to my Ipod and some reading getting some good chill time in before the hard work starts again! A nice cosy warm hut and a great feed of Dahl Bhat with the team geeling and excited – Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow – bring it on!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Everest Base Camp & Island Peak Memoirs Part VII
Tuesday 28th October Lobouche (4,930m) to Gorak Shep (5.180m)
We get on the trail and meet up with “Team America” ie Maile, Caitlin and Brandon (all siblings) and Jessie. We cruised at a slow steady pace with glorious weather again. The gang is in good spirits, despite not acclimatising properly (coming up too quick and being rather ill with banging headaches at Thukla a part from Jessie). I head up past Gorak Shep, leaving my gear in our room and visit Rob Hall’s memorial. I am really touched and shed a tear for my great countryman and Himalayan legend. The late afternoon storm clouds swirl about, with views of Nuptse creating quite an atmosphere and a feeling of big mountain respect – this was the stuff I’d come to see! Rob Hall was only 35 years old when he passed – what a young life to be taken by this extremely powerful mountain, the intense feelings really hit home as I am 33 years old and still feel very young at heart (most of the time anyway)!
Wednesday 29th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) Acclimatisation Day – Kala Pattar (5,545m)
This morning we’re going to head up to the classic viewpoint that takes in Mt.Everest, unlike EBC which actually doesn’t but has views of the Khumbu icefall and surrounds. I pack up the daypack and we cruise up the 5545m vantage point. After 70 minutes of a slow persistent slog in the thinning air we are treated to absolute mind blowing views of Mt. Everest in all its glory. The eye takes in great views of the khumbu ice fall leading up from EBC and the whole surrounding bowl. Pumori is close behind Kala Pattar and is a striking triangular peak highlighted by a deep deep blue sky. After taking in the views I Trot back down to the sandy flat plateau area of Gorak Shep and lay in the sun by a beautiful ice lake – great to have the feet out of the boots and in the sun! A few momos in the arvo with some chilled out reading. Ian the New Yorker is still feeling quite sick with little appetite (he had been in the Indian Himal for over 40 days so it would be unusual for it to be an acclimatising issue) and is suffering from bad guts. Night arrives and Christina and Saran turn up with the team of Swedes (Per, Freddy and Ola) whom I will join in a few days to Climb Island Peak. It’s great to have a chat and some chai and get to know them all a little better – what a great bunch of people they are!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
We get on the trail and meet up with “Team America” ie Maile, Caitlin and Brandon (all siblings) and Jessie. We cruised at a slow steady pace with glorious weather again. The gang is in good spirits, despite not acclimatising properly (coming up too quick and being rather ill with banging headaches at Thukla a part from Jessie). I head up past Gorak Shep, leaving my gear in our room and visit Rob Hall’s memorial. I am really touched and shed a tear for my great countryman and Himalayan legend. The late afternoon storm clouds swirl about, with views of Nuptse creating quite an atmosphere and a feeling of big mountain respect – this was the stuff I’d come to see! Rob Hall was only 35 years old when he passed – what a young life to be taken by this extremely powerful mountain, the intense feelings really hit home as I am 33 years old and still feel very young at heart (most of the time anyway)!
Wednesday 29th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) Acclimatisation Day – Kala Pattar (5,545m)
This morning we’re going to head up to the classic viewpoint that takes in Mt.Everest, unlike EBC which actually doesn’t but has views of the Khumbu icefall and surrounds. I pack up the daypack and we cruise up the 5545m vantage point. After 70 minutes of a slow persistent slog in the thinning air we are treated to absolute mind blowing views of Mt. Everest in all its glory. The eye takes in great views of the khumbu ice fall leading up from EBC and the whole surrounding bowl. Pumori is close behind Kala Pattar and is a striking triangular peak highlighted by a deep deep blue sky. After taking in the views I Trot back down to the sandy flat plateau area of Gorak Shep and lay in the sun by a beautiful ice lake – great to have the feet out of the boots and in the sun! A few momos in the arvo with some chilled out reading. Ian the New Yorker is still feeling quite sick with little appetite (he had been in the Indian Himal for over 40 days so it would be unusual for it to be an acclimatising issue) and is suffering from bad guts. Night arrives and Christina and Saran turn up with the team of Swedes (Per, Freddy and Ola) whom I will join in a few days to Climb Island Peak. It’s great to have a chat and some chai and get to know them all a little better – what a great bunch of people they are!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Friday, 25 December 2009
Island Peak and Everest Base Camp Memoirs VI
Friday 24th October Deboche to Dingboche (4,420m)
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
Saturday 25th October Dingboche (4,420m) Acclimatisation Day
I awake to yet another glorious day and Climb up Nankartshang peak (5,040m), the ridge behind Dingboche – with superb views of the surrounding peak and valleys from up there! I can see Island Peak, so named because it was likened to an Island in a glacial sea of ice. There is also awesome view of the two lakes below Ama Dablam. Glorious Sunshine bakes me and I even have my shorts and T-shirt on, to some American’s disgust…of course I had full Gore-Tex gear in my pack but make hay while the sun shines I think to myself! It’s a fair old steep grunt and it feels good to get the lungs working at a bit of altitude in preparation. The views are just sublime and it’s great to get over the magic 5000 meter mark! I return back to the suntrap that is the courtyard in my teahouse; some clouds come in late which adds to the atmosphere as I enjoy my book and chai.
Sunday 26th October Dingboche (4,420m) to Thukla (4,500m)
I Tramp across to Thukla in the awakening dawn after a nice early brekkie hanging out with the Sherpas by the fire in the kitchen. A lovely morning overlooking Pheriche (where the Himalayan Rescue Association is based) and I Cross the roaring milky glacier river over a small wooden bridge arriving at Thukla. While having a chai break I meet a nice guy - Ian from New York and decide to share a room with him up in my next destination, Lobouche. I book into a room in Thukla, dump my gear and hike up to Lobouche (to acclimatise) and book anther room (The “Eco Lodge”) for the next night as the trek starts to bottleneck towards EBC. We return to Thukla and meet “team America”. After 5 beers with Jessie and Ian, having a great laugh (a few people looking on thinking we’re completely mad drinking at this altitude) we hit the hay falling into a drunken stupa!
Monday 27th October Thukla (4,500m) to Lobouche (4,930m)
A steep start after tea and porridge we pace up to Lobouche, drop our gear at the “Eco Lodge” and continue hiking up to Gorak Shep, the last gathering of teahouses before EBC. After lunch at Gorak Shep we take in the beautiful bluebird views of the surrounding majestic peaks – Pumori, the Nupste Wall and Lhotse. We Drop back down the valley to Loboche and relax with some reading. I have traded my book with Ian’s “3 Cups of Tea” about an American ER nurse called Greg Mortenson who builds 55 schools in Pakistan – an admirable read. There’s anticipation at the dinner table as we’re nearing EBC, a good feed of Tuna spaghetti and it’s off off to bed with excitement building.
www.sunstoneadventures.com
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
Saturday 25th October Dingboche (4,420m) Acclimatisation Day
I awake to yet another glorious day and Climb up Nankartshang peak (5,040m), the ridge behind Dingboche – with superb views of the surrounding peak and valleys from up there! I can see Island Peak, so named because it was likened to an Island in a glacial sea of ice. There is also awesome view of the two lakes below Ama Dablam. Glorious Sunshine bakes me and I even have my shorts and T-shirt on, to some American’s disgust…of course I had full Gore-Tex gear in my pack but make hay while the sun shines I think to myself! It’s a fair old steep grunt and it feels good to get the lungs working at a bit of altitude in preparation. The views are just sublime and it’s great to get over the magic 5000 meter mark! I return back to the suntrap that is the courtyard in my teahouse; some clouds come in late which adds to the atmosphere as I enjoy my book and chai.
Sunday 26th October Dingboche (4,420m) to Thukla (4,500m)
I Tramp across to Thukla in the awakening dawn after a nice early brekkie hanging out with the Sherpas by the fire in the kitchen. A lovely morning overlooking Pheriche (where the Himalayan Rescue Association is based) and I Cross the roaring milky glacier river over a small wooden bridge arriving at Thukla. While having a chai break I meet a nice guy - Ian from New York and decide to share a room with him up in my next destination, Lobouche. I book into a room in Thukla, dump my gear and hike up to Lobouche (to acclimatise) and book anther room (The “Eco Lodge”) for the next night as the trek starts to bottleneck towards EBC. We return to Thukla and meet “team America”. After 5 beers with Jessie and Ian, having a great laugh (a few people looking on thinking we’re completely mad drinking at this altitude) we hit the hay falling into a drunken stupa!
Monday 27th October Thukla (4,500m) to Lobouche (4,930m)
A steep start after tea and porridge we pace up to Lobouche, drop our gear at the “Eco Lodge” and continue hiking up to Gorak Shep, the last gathering of teahouses before EBC. After lunch at Gorak Shep we take in the beautiful bluebird views of the surrounding majestic peaks – Pumori, the Nupste Wall and Lhotse. We Drop back down the valley to Loboche and relax with some reading. I have traded my book with Ian’s “3 Cups of Tea” about an American ER nurse called Greg Mortenson who builds 55 schools in Pakistan – an admirable read. There’s anticipation at the dinner table as we’re nearing EBC, a good feed of Tuna spaghetti and it’s off off to bed with excitement building.
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Thursday, 24 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs V
Friday 24th October Deboche to Dingboche (4,420m)
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
Monday, 21 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs IV
Thursday 23rd October – Namche (3,440m) to Deboche
I awake to another beautiful day – feeling better and pretty soon have wonderful views of Everest as I get myself on the track and start to move my way up again. I have lunch at Phagding after crossing a beautiful river (Dudh Kosi) on a swing bridge as laden yaks pass me by. After a steep, hard slog I take in dramatic views of Thamserku and the majestic Ama Dablam eventually reaching the magical monastery village of Tengboche. Unfortunately it’s fully booked up by trekkers in this busy period so I head my way down to the idyllic little spot of Deboche. A place where legendary Russian Climber Anatoli Boukreev apparently frequented in his rest days acclimatising for many Everest expeditions over the years. Apparently he would come right down this low to give his body a real chance to recover at lower altitude rather than EBC (Everest Base Camp) where most climbers drop down to rest. The Ama Dablam lodge is baked in bright sunshine, so I take a nice seat, reading and soaking up the Vitamin D and sublime mountain vista all around me. It is fairly short-lived however as some late afternoon clouds arrive. I Chat with a British father and son who are a little clueless to where they’ve actually visited (obviously guided and not paying too much attention) and discover they will also be climbing Island Peak. They had envisaged the summit day to be 6-7 hours I advise them that 12-15 hours was a more realistic target! A pleasant chat though and its better they hear it from me now than discover that later, on the mountain! I have a nice little walk to the nearby nunnery and just before dusk spot one of the funny large ground birds – the Tibetan Snow cock and get a glimpse of a shy Musk Deer. Dinner is more Dahl Bhatt with lots of Chai (milky sweet tea) to wash it down by the cosy fire – ‘Chai-dration’ to the max!!!!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
I awake to another beautiful day – feeling better and pretty soon have wonderful views of Everest as I get myself on the track and start to move my way up again. I have lunch at Phagding after crossing a beautiful river (Dudh Kosi) on a swing bridge as laden yaks pass me by. After a steep, hard slog I take in dramatic views of Thamserku and the majestic Ama Dablam eventually reaching the magical monastery village of Tengboche. Unfortunately it’s fully booked up by trekkers in this busy period so I head my way down to the idyllic little spot of Deboche. A place where legendary Russian Climber Anatoli Boukreev apparently frequented in his rest days acclimatising for many Everest expeditions over the years. Apparently he would come right down this low to give his body a real chance to recover at lower altitude rather than EBC (Everest Base Camp) where most climbers drop down to rest. The Ama Dablam lodge is baked in bright sunshine, so I take a nice seat, reading and soaking up the Vitamin D and sublime mountain vista all around me. It is fairly short-lived however as some late afternoon clouds arrive. I Chat with a British father and son who are a little clueless to where they’ve actually visited (obviously guided and not paying too much attention) and discover they will also be climbing Island Peak. They had envisaged the summit day to be 6-7 hours I advise them that 12-15 hours was a more realistic target! A pleasant chat though and its better they hear it from me now than discover that later, on the mountain! I have a nice little walk to the nearby nunnery and just before dusk spot one of the funny large ground birds – the Tibetan Snow cock and get a glimpse of a shy Musk Deer. Dinner is more Dahl Bhatt with lots of Chai (milky sweet tea) to wash it down by the cosy fire – ‘Chai-dration’ to the max!!!!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Tuesday, 15 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs III
Wednesday 22nd October – Namche Bazaar (3,440m) Acclimatisation Day
An early start as I’m feeling better, tea and I wander up around the gompa above my guesthouse. Porridge and off to a great viewpoint and finally the stunning views of the big bopper – Mount Everest - wow! The big black mass of Everest Pokes out in its full glory backed by a deep blue sky with its classic white plume, jet streaming off into the distance! I’m really here! Superb views also of Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam & Thamserku (also a first ascent for Sir Edmund Hillary of NZ). I don’t bother with the hike to Everest Hotel (apparently tea on the balcony is very convivial) but head back to the bakery instead for Cappuccino (not bad but not Italy), garlic soup & bread and postcard writing in the beautiful sunshine. The weather really is sublime in this settled spring period – just the best! I treat myself to a full head shave from the barber which is precise and luxurious;up to the normal high standard. Although you do pay a premium at this altitude but it’s all worth it! A few emails, banking and some business to attend to (URL renewal on one of my websites) and I’m feeling organised and looking like a rock star! Lunchtime is calling – Pizza?
www.sunstoneadventures.com
An early start as I’m feeling better, tea and I wander up around the gompa above my guesthouse. Porridge and off to a great viewpoint and finally the stunning views of the big bopper – Mount Everest - wow! The big black mass of Everest Pokes out in its full glory backed by a deep blue sky with its classic white plume, jet streaming off into the distance! I’m really here! Superb views also of Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam & Thamserku (also a first ascent for Sir Edmund Hillary of NZ). I don’t bother with the hike to Everest Hotel (apparently tea on the balcony is very convivial) but head back to the bakery instead for Cappuccino (not bad but not Italy), garlic soup & bread and postcard writing in the beautiful sunshine. The weather really is sublime in this settled spring period – just the best! I treat myself to a full head shave from the barber which is precise and luxurious;up to the normal high standard. Although you do pay a premium at this altitude but it’s all worth it! A few emails, banking and some business to attend to (URL renewal on one of my websites) and I’m feeling organised and looking like a rock star! Lunchtime is calling – Pizza?
www.sunstoneadventures.com
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