After catching up with friends Saran (Nepalese mountain guide) and Steve (ex-pat Aussie and Nepali language scholar) in Kathmandu for lunch it was great to meet the trekking group. A lovely traditional Nepali welcome dinner with great food (royal dahl bhat) and traditional dancing we all got acquainted with Emma (swede), Mats (swede) and Steve (Aussie) over some Raksi (local rice wine). The group were all planned to trek to Everest Base Camp, with Steve heading off to Gokyo Lakes, Emma & Mats returning to Namche and Sarran and I to climb 6119m Lobouche Peak with support from expedition Sherpas. Interestingly Lobouche is a classic 6000m peak used for acclimatising for Mount Everest expeditions and is one of the most technical trekking peaks with 250-300m of steepe, fixed rope ice climbing. I had bumnped into legendary Kiwi mountain guide 'Woody' who was working for Russell Brice's Himalaya Experience and they were planning to summit Lobouche in preparation for an Everest summit attempt. If successful this would be Woody's 14th Everest summit - pretty full on!
A city tour was planned the next day and we met up 9am setting off in the mini bus to Boudinath Stupa, a short drive from thamel in Kathmandu. It's an amazing stupa with the characteristic 'buddha eyes' and huge white dome-like body surrounded by temples and yes the commerce side of things - tourist shops! We were given an excellent talk and tour by our guide Nabeen and learnt about the wider history of Buddha and how this related to Boudinath. We learnt about the traditional Thanka paintings - mandalas and the wheel of life and how they are painstakingly crafted over months and sometimes years!
After a good look around it was off to Durbar Square in old Kathmandu. An ice cream and a look at some of the beautiful temples, one of which had some rather intricately carved sexual positions from what they call'lion style' (doggy style to us Westerners) to 'the wheel barrow' and so on - a good laugh had by all. That night we chilled out and made last minute purchases of supplies (snickers and bounty bars for me) and had a nice relax over a few beers.
The airport over the next couple of days was the usual chaos and we found ourselves waiting, being pushed back because of delays (the day before) and losing the 'calm weather window'. So by midday the wind had risen above the 12knots in Lukla(apparently this is the benchmark of wind knots they won't fly over). Frustration was starting to mount after being put on the runway bus several times and returning to the departure lounge. It was obvious it was not our day and better to try and secure a morning flight slot. Off to 'fire and ice' for the best pizza in Thamel and to Kilroy's that evening for more comfort food feasting!
Take 2 and things went from bad to worse with a plane breaking down and not much action of planes flying to Lukla at all. Classic disinformation and time was ticking for clients on an agenda - we needed to get out of here! Mats (Swede) decided enough was enough and hired a helicopter (knowing the rest of us were not in a position to fork out the $600USD each) he spoke to us saying there was no obligation but there was however, 4 available seats on the chopper if we were keen! Of course we took up this very generous offer and bailed from the dysfunctional mess humming our way to Lukla on the giant mechanical insect. As thanks I bought him 'touching the void' by Joe Sumpson as I had discovered, in previous conversation he hadn't read it and he was delighted by the gift.
We were off buzzing over the dry, mountainous landscape with cut gorges from silky relecting rivers - what a way to start trekking to Everest Base Camp by an adrenaline filled 50 minute chopper ride! We touched down in Lukla and we were finally on the trail tramping our way to Phakding , sucking in the clean mountain air, taking on the dramatic environs of the Everest Highway and soon slurping on tea as we pulled into our teahouse! Thanks again Mats - hero of the day! Rock on!
Vids to follow on Sunstone Facebook page.
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Showing posts with label Mount Everest Trek. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mount Everest Trek. Show all posts
Friday, 2 April 2010
Tuesday, 29 December 2009
Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb Memoirs Part VIII
Thursday 30th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) to Everest Base Camp (5,380m) to Dingboche (4,420m)
An early start with Ian and we put on a good pace as we race up to EBC. The sun is shining and the sky is blue, what a surprise, this autumn weather is truly the best time to visit the Himalayas for clarity of view. As we approach, views of huge towering Seracs on the Khumbu Glacier, as we dodge around holes in the glacier, creaking ice and generally pretty rough morraine terrain. It’s great having a look around, only one expedition here with a small grouping of tents. I stumble across a 1960’s Oxygen Canister amongst the tents of the Korean expedition. This is certainly not the optimum time for climbing Everest as the excellent weather window, high on the mountain occurs in May. As we’re gazing up the Khumbu icefall small ice falls and avalanches pour down giving an air of seriousness. It’s great to be here a the place it all happens, at the heart of some many adventure stories I’ve read and a good feeling of achievement washes over me! We head down crisscrossing the undulating moraine for lunch at Gorak Shep. We part company as Ian is heading down to Pheriche and I will meet the expedition team in Dingboche. I head off reaching Lobouche 2.45pm and onto Thukla 4pm branching across to Dingboche arriving 5.15pm just before dark. I jump in the excellent outdoor shower and then officially meet up and join the expedition team – Team Sweden plus the Kiwi! It’s great to have some good yarns with Ola, father of Freddy (19 years old) and Per who is now my roommate. Ola had climbed Island Peak a couple of years ago and wanted to share the experience with Freddy, so brought him back to have a crack at it, which was just great!
Friday 31st October Dingboche (4,420m) to Chukkung (4,720m)
I woke after a great sleep to our Sirdar Nima bringing me morning tea and a bowl of warm water to wash with, just great. I head up the road and quickly log-in on email (20 rupees per minute would you believe compared to 20 rupees per hour back in Kathmandu!) but hey it’s over 4000m in the Himalayas! I write a quick email to Ma & Pa and Kitty (my girlfriend at the time) and am delighted to also receive some news from my last recruitment company that a candidate I was working closely with has secured a role that I had previously arranged an interview for, isn’t technology amazing! We start Trekking leisurely up to Chukkung, the beautiful valley unfolds and there’s a feeling of excitement to be part of a team that will share the experience of the Island Peak mission. I did some final washing of clothes and chat with Ola, Freddy, Per and Christina as we all look forward to heading up to Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow. I have a little siesta; listening to my Ipod and some reading getting some good chill time in before the hard work starts again! A nice cosy warm hut and a great feed of Dahl Bhat with the team geeling and excited – Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow – bring it on!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
An early start with Ian and we put on a good pace as we race up to EBC. The sun is shining and the sky is blue, what a surprise, this autumn weather is truly the best time to visit the Himalayas for clarity of view. As we approach, views of huge towering Seracs on the Khumbu Glacier, as we dodge around holes in the glacier, creaking ice and generally pretty rough morraine terrain. It’s great having a look around, only one expedition here with a small grouping of tents. I stumble across a 1960’s Oxygen Canister amongst the tents of the Korean expedition. This is certainly not the optimum time for climbing Everest as the excellent weather window, high on the mountain occurs in May. As we’re gazing up the Khumbu icefall small ice falls and avalanches pour down giving an air of seriousness. It’s great to be here a the place it all happens, at the heart of some many adventure stories I’ve read and a good feeling of achievement washes over me! We head down crisscrossing the undulating moraine for lunch at Gorak Shep. We part company as Ian is heading down to Pheriche and I will meet the expedition team in Dingboche. I head off reaching Lobouche 2.45pm and onto Thukla 4pm branching across to Dingboche arriving 5.15pm just before dark. I jump in the excellent outdoor shower and then officially meet up and join the expedition team – Team Sweden plus the Kiwi! It’s great to have some good yarns with Ola, father of Freddy (19 years old) and Per who is now my roommate. Ola had climbed Island Peak a couple of years ago and wanted to share the experience with Freddy, so brought him back to have a crack at it, which was just great!
Friday 31st October Dingboche (4,420m) to Chukkung (4,720m)
I woke after a great sleep to our Sirdar Nima bringing me morning tea and a bowl of warm water to wash with, just great. I head up the road and quickly log-in on email (20 rupees per minute would you believe compared to 20 rupees per hour back in Kathmandu!) but hey it’s over 4000m in the Himalayas! I write a quick email to Ma & Pa and Kitty (my girlfriend at the time) and am delighted to also receive some news from my last recruitment company that a candidate I was working closely with has secured a role that I had previously arranged an interview for, isn’t technology amazing! We start Trekking leisurely up to Chukkung, the beautiful valley unfolds and there’s a feeling of excitement to be part of a team that will share the experience of the Island Peak mission. I did some final washing of clothes and chat with Ola, Freddy, Per and Christina as we all look forward to heading up to Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow. I have a little siesta; listening to my Ipod and some reading getting some good chill time in before the hard work starts again! A nice cosy warm hut and a great feed of Dahl Bhat with the team geeling and excited – Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow – bring it on!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Everest Base Camp & Island Peak Memoirs Part VII
Tuesday 28th October Lobouche (4,930m) to Gorak Shep (5.180m)
We get on the trail and meet up with “Team America” ie Maile, Caitlin and Brandon (all siblings) and Jessie. We cruised at a slow steady pace with glorious weather again. The gang is in good spirits, despite not acclimatising properly (coming up too quick and being rather ill with banging headaches at Thukla a part from Jessie). I head up past Gorak Shep, leaving my gear in our room and visit Rob Hall’s memorial. I am really touched and shed a tear for my great countryman and Himalayan legend. The late afternoon storm clouds swirl about, with views of Nuptse creating quite an atmosphere and a feeling of big mountain respect – this was the stuff I’d come to see! Rob Hall was only 35 years old when he passed – what a young life to be taken by this extremely powerful mountain, the intense feelings really hit home as I am 33 years old and still feel very young at heart (most of the time anyway)!
Wednesday 29th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) Acclimatisation Day – Kala Pattar (5,545m)
This morning we’re going to head up to the classic viewpoint that takes in Mt.Everest, unlike EBC which actually doesn’t but has views of the Khumbu icefall and surrounds. I pack up the daypack and we cruise up the 5545m vantage point. After 70 minutes of a slow persistent slog in the thinning air we are treated to absolute mind blowing views of Mt. Everest in all its glory. The eye takes in great views of the khumbu ice fall leading up from EBC and the whole surrounding bowl. Pumori is close behind Kala Pattar and is a striking triangular peak highlighted by a deep deep blue sky. After taking in the views I Trot back down to the sandy flat plateau area of Gorak Shep and lay in the sun by a beautiful ice lake – great to have the feet out of the boots and in the sun! A few momos in the arvo with some chilled out reading. Ian the New Yorker is still feeling quite sick with little appetite (he had been in the Indian Himal for over 40 days so it would be unusual for it to be an acclimatising issue) and is suffering from bad guts. Night arrives and Christina and Saran turn up with the team of Swedes (Per, Freddy and Ola) whom I will join in a few days to Climb Island Peak. It’s great to have a chat and some chai and get to know them all a little better – what a great bunch of people they are!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
We get on the trail and meet up with “Team America” ie Maile, Caitlin and Brandon (all siblings) and Jessie. We cruised at a slow steady pace with glorious weather again. The gang is in good spirits, despite not acclimatising properly (coming up too quick and being rather ill with banging headaches at Thukla a part from Jessie). I head up past Gorak Shep, leaving my gear in our room and visit Rob Hall’s memorial. I am really touched and shed a tear for my great countryman and Himalayan legend. The late afternoon storm clouds swirl about, with views of Nuptse creating quite an atmosphere and a feeling of big mountain respect – this was the stuff I’d come to see! Rob Hall was only 35 years old when he passed – what a young life to be taken by this extremely powerful mountain, the intense feelings really hit home as I am 33 years old and still feel very young at heart (most of the time anyway)!
Wednesday 29th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) Acclimatisation Day – Kala Pattar (5,545m)
This morning we’re going to head up to the classic viewpoint that takes in Mt.Everest, unlike EBC which actually doesn’t but has views of the Khumbu icefall and surrounds. I pack up the daypack and we cruise up the 5545m vantage point. After 70 minutes of a slow persistent slog in the thinning air we are treated to absolute mind blowing views of Mt. Everest in all its glory. The eye takes in great views of the khumbu ice fall leading up from EBC and the whole surrounding bowl. Pumori is close behind Kala Pattar and is a striking triangular peak highlighted by a deep deep blue sky. After taking in the views I Trot back down to the sandy flat plateau area of Gorak Shep and lay in the sun by a beautiful ice lake – great to have the feet out of the boots and in the sun! A few momos in the arvo with some chilled out reading. Ian the New Yorker is still feeling quite sick with little appetite (he had been in the Indian Himal for over 40 days so it would be unusual for it to be an acclimatising issue) and is suffering from bad guts. Night arrives and Christina and Saran turn up with the team of Swedes (Per, Freddy and Ola) whom I will join in a few days to Climb Island Peak. It’s great to have a chat and some chai and get to know them all a little better – what a great bunch of people they are!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Thursday, 24 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs V
Friday 24th October Deboche to Dingboche (4,420m)
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
Monday, 14 December 2009
Island Peak Mountaineering Expedition Memoirs II
Monday 20th October – Phakding (2,650m) to Monjo (2,815m)
I’m still feeling crap and it has now spread to the chest – blerg! After a huge sleep and lazy start I walk up the valley following the thunderous Dudh Kosi River with incredible views of the towering Thamserku. I arrive at “Doma Lodge” in Monjo around midday and kick back reading in the blazing sun before an afternoon siesta to replenish the energy levels. A nice comfortable room and hot shower then time for Dahl Bhaat and good Apple Pie – mmmnnnnn the pleasures of comfort food!
Tuesday 21st October – Monjo (2,815m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
A big day a head – the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar! I get an early start with big brekkie of 2 X boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and honey porridge. I slowly slog to Namche Bazaar, taking 2.5 hours arriving earlier than predicted and I’m feeling ok, I’ve gained this key acclimatization point and can now chill out for the next couple of days. It’s nice to be up here with the hustle and bustle of the market bazaar. I score a cheap place and from the surrounding evidence of Yak Dung it seems to be some kind of Yak drivers stop! It’s very homely which is rare for the busy Bazaar and will do the trick for some well needed recovery before I head up further. It’s perched on the eastern side and has great views over the sunny Namche Bowl. Nice family but a small pesky dog starts yapping at me, oh well can’t have it all! I seem to be the only “gora” (foreigner) staying here with the yak herders and yaks - well it’s about the experience we’re all searching for I think to myself! I head down to the legendary Everest Bakery and score a great seat in the sun, chomping on my Yak Sizzler with yummy mushroom sauce. It’s quite rich and gamey, and can be a little tough sometimes, not this bad boy, it’s juicy and tender. I head back for a siesta and a nice dinner (tuna, vege and rice) before settling in for an early night to break this cold. Some scratchy sounds in the walls, only rats I think to myself as long as they leave me alone to sleep, which they do!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Monday 20th October – Phakding (2,650m) to Monjo (2,815m)
I’m still feeling crap and it has now spread to the chest – blerg! After a huge sleep and lazy start I walk up the valley following the thunderous Dudh Kosi River with incredible views of the towering Thamserku. I arrive at “Doma Lodge” in Monjo around midday and kick back reading in the blazing sun before an afternoon siesta to replenish the energy levels. A nice comfortable room and hot shower then time for Dahl Bhaat and good Apple Pie – mmmnnnnn the pleasures of comfort food!
Tuesday 21st October – Monjo (2,815m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
A big day a head – the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar! I get an early start with big brekkie of 2 X boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and honey porridge. I slowly slog to Namche Bazaar, taking 2.5 hours arriving earlier than predicted and I’m feeling ok, I’ve gained this key acclimatization point and can now chill out for the next couple of days. It’s nice to be up here with the hustle and bustle of the market bazaar. I score a cheap place and from the surrounding evidence of Yak Dung it seems to be some kind of Yak drivers stop! It’s very homely which is rare for the busy Bazaar and will do the trick for some well needed recovery before I head up further. It’s perched on the eastern side and has great views over the sunny Namche Bowl. Nice family but a small pesky dog starts yapping at me, oh well can’t have it all! I seem to be the only “gora” (foreigner) staying here with the yak herders and yaks - well it’s about the experience we’re all searching for I think to myself! I head down to the legendary Everest Bakery and score a great seat in the sun, chomping on my Yak Sizzler with yummy mushroom sauce. It’s quite rich and gamey, and can be a little tough sometimes, not this bad boy, it’s juicy and tender. I head back for a siesta and a nice dinner (tuna, vege and rice) before settling in for an early night to break this cold. Some scratchy sounds in the walls, only rats I think to myself as long as they leave me alone to sleep, which they do!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
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