Monday 11th April - Approach to Base Camp.
We dropped down to Pheriche having some farewell beers and goodbyes to the Everest Base Camp Team of Mats, Emma, Steve, Om and Nima. A quick update on the excellent, albeit expensive Internet connection near the HRA (Himalayan Rescue Association) and we set off back up the Hill. Lunch at Thukla and we were heading our way to Lobouche Base Camp, a mere 1 hour after drinking chai. Low pressure with snow clouds really started brewing giving us the hebee jebees but things can change quickly in the Himal, and we were ever hopeful. It calmed slightly but the amazing clouds gave an incredible fiery red sunset viewed from a ridge above Lobouche Base Camp with views of Cholatse, Taweche and toward Ama Dablam were epic!
Check out the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDFDHb4K4OA
Back to camp for a great dinner - broccoli soup with mini pompadoms. Main of rice, dal, mutter paneer (peas and nak's cheese), mini sausages, eggs that had been boiled & fried with a super interesting dessert of Aloe Vera cubes which were delicious! Reading the 'book thief' so off to bed to chill and await tomorrow's sunrise and chill out in Base Camp for a nice laid back rest day!
Sunday April 12th - Rest Day at Base Camp.
Awoke 5.30am - it just gets earlier and earlier - age!? or Environment!? Probably both! A superb super clarity bluebird day which had been the norm, disrupted by the low pressure last night and was great news as the snow flurry that signified an oncoming storm had passed or we had thought had past! We may just get the good weather we're hoping for but we'll have to wait and see. I walked up the ridge taking in views of Ama Dablam. Cholatse and Lobouche Peak as the sun started to dance on the high ridge tops. I was joined by a beautiful black Himalayan dog as I climbed higher on the ridge on the perfect morning perched over Lobouche Base Camp! Gotta love those Himal dogs - proper hardy dogs them. Don't build 'em like the use to in the West!
Monday 13th April - Trek to High Camp.
Another bluebird day after a clear starry night. A crazy little mammal running around which was either the yellow-throated marten or a mongoose!? Anyways provided much camp side entertainment as it circled around doing laps at a million miles an hour - but always staying close to the safety of the rocks.
We trekked up, slow & steady taking in views of the crags and spotted a Golden Eagle circling for prey! We arrived as they Sherpa boys were putting up the tents for us but again swirling clouds started coming in! Check out Pics from the Sunstone Face book Page:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sunstone-Adventures-Limited/125604380964?v=photos&ref=ts#!/photo.php?pid=4589136&id=125604380964
I awoke to what sounded like slight drizzle about 11.30pm at night, but peered out of the tent and thick snow had started to gather. Again an hour later it wasn't stopping - I really thought our chance at climbing was over - due to avalanche danger, deep unaccessible snow or just a humdinger of a storm (visibility)! But I awoke at 3am to Mingma opening my tent with porridge (hot milk too) to starry, clear skies - wow - I had really given up - but the excitement and adrenaline was back on -we were going to climb - yee haa! However the snow had warmed and then started to freeze again causing the (normally dry straight forward, dry, smooth) slabs to become icy. I started slipping about a minute in and announced the crampons are going on, the Himalayan boys weren't use to this and I was of the thinking - if ya got 'em smoke'em I mean use 'em! From High Camp we made our way in the dark padding our way up the treacherously icy slabs, using the cracks and features for purchase and light started to slowly break. We made our way to crampon point and, as it snowed a foot of snow in the night the valley and surrounding peaks were beautifully blanketed creating an almost sepia or black & white effect giving beautiful contrast!
Check out picture: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sunstone-Adventures-Limited/125604380964?v=photos&ref=ts#!/photo.php?pid=4589096&id=125604380964
We made our way up the 650m of fixed ropes (400m vertical) as the day broke into perfect weather and started to warm the bodies. Some good sustained medium steep climbing, really at about 40-55 degrees and some 60-65 degree cruxes in places. Three quarters of the way up the slope, the route kinks towards the summit ridge, I was behind Saran as he pulled around the corner with views of Everest starting to appear. Saran continued cranking it up the lovely sustained steep 55-60 degrees pitch, looking over the exposure you can see the small town of Lobouche right below you...between ya legs. We pressed on reaching the false summit and curved around to the real summit, one small jump over a crevasse (yeah great)which had the heart flutter and we were there - 6119m with epic panoramic views - just sublime! We had summited at 9am after leaving High Camp at 4am in the morning which was great going considering the added precarious smooth slabs and now it was time to parade the Sunstone Adventures banner before getting the hell out of there!
We returned down stopping at High Camp in great weather, as the wind started up throwing spindrift off the top of the peak making our way to Base Camp. We had a lovely greeting by the Sherpa boys whom had done a great job supporting us on our climb. We had chai and I was even made cheese & tuna sandwiches, chilling on the rocks as the sun bathed down on us. We retired to our tents, wallowing in the summit glory having a great siesta! We rose for a good dinner of spaghetti and fried chips. Pretty knackered and we all slept like a baby, knowing we'd bagged a beauty of a 6000m peak!
I awoke to a beautiful blanket of snow as we again had a couple of hours snow. Again bluebird day and time to pack up BC and cruise to Pheriche for lunch and update the world on the Internet. A surprisingly good connection at 4300m but a little pricey at 20 rupees per minute....you can pay 20 rupees per hour in Dolohiti, Kathmandu! A good lunch at the lodge and we pressed on to Pangboche, but before we did we stopped in for 'tea' which quickly turned into 2 jugs of the local 'chang', the millet beer from Mingma Sherpa Tshering, our climbing Sherpa and his wife. We cruised on, rather happily tipsy and pulled into Pangboche for cards, dal bhat and a few more glasses of chang! Nice to have a wee celebration in aid of summiting Lobouche Peak!
A few more updates on the Internet and soaking up the congrats emails was great as we made our way further down the valley. We walked to Phangetenge and had a killer chili tomato soup which not only cleared off the 'chang-over' but blew my head off! As we were dropping altitude some swirling clouds arose, creating an atmospheric walk back up the 3 hilly sections to Namche Bazaar. We reunited with team member Steve who had descended to Namche and done a side trip to Thame. Steve went up to a medieval Sherpa village called Taranga, mostly inhabited by Sherpa farmers producing spuds. He had enjoyed some good photography and relaxing after a top effort making it to EBC and up KP!
Made our way down to Lukla and were delighted to see Man U beat City in the local derby in the English Premiership with Scholesy finishing a tight game in the 93rd minute. A few beers to celebrate especially with spurs doing Chelsea suddenly the Red Devils are looking like winning the premiership! Awoke early and had a smooth transfer returning back to Kathmandu! Happy days and a zeeperb trip. Although how many frickin' motorbikes are in this town!? I swear I'll get my toes run over one of these days....it's only a matter of time!
A big thanks to all the Sherpa support from Saran, Mingma, Nima, Om, Dai and Bhopal!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Showing posts with label Everest Trek. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Everest Trek. Show all posts
Thursday, 22 April 2010
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Everest Base Camp Trek & Kala Pattar
A good climb up the dusty steep track to Namche we honed in our first acclimatisation goal to stay 2 nights at the busy little trading bazaar. It was great to get there and have a decent espresso coffee and chocolate brownies at the Everest Bakery - yumlicious! The next day (a rest day) we carted ourselves up the relatively steep track to Everest View Hotel to let our bodies feel some altitude and return down to sleep. Lovely hot chocolate on the balcony with sublime views of Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8386, Peak38 4587 and Ama Dablam 6812 - what a beauty of a day and great 'posi' for a drink or lunch!
The next day it was time to set off to the beautiful Monastery of Tengboche to see the Monks perform their Mantras. Again a steep climb after lunch but well rewarded as we pulled into town greeted by the beautiful chortens and rich coulurs of the temple. Again we found the 'Lavazza' sign and it was another last chance for real coffee. A great little guesthouse and an early rise to capture the first of the sun and the young monks welcoming in the morning blowing Conch Shells. For cool video please see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcQsnI57lMA
We trekked on through Deboche and winding our way up to Shomare and nearing our next acllimatisation spot of Dingboche at 4420m where, as entering we received our first views of the 6119m East Lobouche Peak. Our group was divided into 3 whom were heading to EBC (Everest Base Camp) and a couple of climbers to make their first ascent of this classic 6000m peak.
Another 'Rest Day' although local guide and slave driver Super Subbaman had a half day trek planned up the Nankhanshang ridge fopr us which takes you up to 4800m although you can go to the peak at 5100m which was perfect acllimatisation for the Lobouche climbers. I was very lucky to see a huge Golden Eagle making an awesome flight right over me, searching for prey. A good climb in gorgeous weather and it was down to chill out, do some washing of socks/gruds etc and a spot of reading. For lunch I tried some unusual fermented cheese that was wrapped up in savoury pancakes with garlic & chilli and tasted like blue vein cheese - delicious! We were sharing the lodge with Russell Brice's Himalaya Experience group which was made of both clients looking to climb Mount Everest and trekker heading to EBC in support of them. Was nice to catch up with legendary Mountain Guide 'Woody' from Queenstown,NZ whom I met skiing in Gulmarg, Kashmir just a month previously! It's a small old world!
We cut across the hill, the next morning, overlooking Pheriche and a huge braided river valley which led up to views of Taweche, Cholatse and across to Lobouche Peak. Tea at Lukla and up through the Everest Memorials (in memory of past Everest climbers) and up to Lobouche, where at close to 5000m the air was beginning to thin rapidly. The next day it was all on, the push to Gorak Shep and onto the iconic Everest Base Camp. We toiled through the moraine, again with blazing sun coming down on us, sucking up as much water as possible to counter that thinning air. We were all on good form after some good sleeps and looked to be all on track! A final push and Mats, Steve and Emma and the rest of us looked in good form. We wound our way up through the moonlike landscape, undulating up and down with surreal views of the Khumbu Glacier that curves around past EBC and up into the legendary risky Khumbu Icefall. Views of Everest start (only viewed on approach to EBC nad are obscured when you are actually there) as we finally reached the 5364m cairn and start of Everest Base Camp - we'd made it and took some great celebratory photos/videos and a wee celebration ensued.
The mission wasn't quite complete with the fantastic viewpoint of Kala Pattar (5545m) yet to be tackled the next day. A lot of people get up for sunrise but I’m a fan of a little later, as it's less cold and the photos are a lot better with the sun rising over mighty Mount Everest and the huge Nuptse wall. Steve, my Aussie roomy (yes be careful of your wallet with those Aussies ;-) had a bad sleep but showed good determination to give it a crack. I was to climb Lobouche so decided to head off in front and give the body & lungs a bit of a push which proved great as I beat my 70 minute record getting to the high point in 62 minutes. The rest of the group did a great slow & steady effort reaching an hour later which was a good effort for veterans and rookie trekkers alike. The views were extremely rewarding and I would always recommend going to both EBC & KP as they each have their own unique, amazing features of mind-blowing landscapes.
Well done guys & gals what a great effort and Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar are certainly no walk in the park - just ask anyone who's completed them. It takes a tough, focused effort with many elements having to slot into place to get the result and achieve the goal. Now we just had to get down!
Thanks to all the team of Saran, Nima, Om and clients: Mats, Emma and Steve - a superb time had by all!
www.sunstoneadventures
The next day it was time to set off to the beautiful Monastery of Tengboche to see the Monks perform their Mantras. Again a steep climb after lunch but well rewarded as we pulled into town greeted by the beautiful chortens and rich coulurs of the temple. Again we found the 'Lavazza' sign and it was another last chance for real coffee. A great little guesthouse and an early rise to capture the first of the sun and the young monks welcoming in the morning blowing Conch Shells. For cool video please see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcQsnI57lMA
We trekked on through Deboche and winding our way up to Shomare and nearing our next acllimatisation spot of Dingboche at 4420m where, as entering we received our first views of the 6119m East Lobouche Peak. Our group was divided into 3 whom were heading to EBC (Everest Base Camp) and a couple of climbers to make their first ascent of this classic 6000m peak.
Another 'Rest Day' although local guide and slave driver Super Subbaman had a half day trek planned up the Nankhanshang ridge fopr us which takes you up to 4800m although you can go to the peak at 5100m which was perfect acllimatisation for the Lobouche climbers. I was very lucky to see a huge Golden Eagle making an awesome flight right over me, searching for prey. A good climb in gorgeous weather and it was down to chill out, do some washing of socks/gruds etc and a spot of reading. For lunch I tried some unusual fermented cheese that was wrapped up in savoury pancakes with garlic & chilli and tasted like blue vein cheese - delicious! We were sharing the lodge with Russell Brice's Himalaya Experience group which was made of both clients looking to climb Mount Everest and trekker heading to EBC in support of them. Was nice to catch up with legendary Mountain Guide 'Woody' from Queenstown,NZ whom I met skiing in Gulmarg, Kashmir just a month previously! It's a small old world!
We cut across the hill, the next morning, overlooking Pheriche and a huge braided river valley which led up to views of Taweche, Cholatse and across to Lobouche Peak. Tea at Lukla and up through the Everest Memorials (in memory of past Everest climbers) and up to Lobouche, where at close to 5000m the air was beginning to thin rapidly. The next day it was all on, the push to Gorak Shep and onto the iconic Everest Base Camp. We toiled through the moraine, again with blazing sun coming down on us, sucking up as much water as possible to counter that thinning air. We were all on good form after some good sleeps and looked to be all on track! A final push and Mats, Steve and Emma and the rest of us looked in good form. We wound our way up through the moonlike landscape, undulating up and down with surreal views of the Khumbu Glacier that curves around past EBC and up into the legendary risky Khumbu Icefall. Views of Everest start (only viewed on approach to EBC nad are obscured when you are actually there) as we finally reached the 5364m cairn and start of Everest Base Camp - we'd made it and took some great celebratory photos/videos and a wee celebration ensued.
The mission wasn't quite complete with the fantastic viewpoint of Kala Pattar (5545m) yet to be tackled the next day. A lot of people get up for sunrise but I’m a fan of a little later, as it's less cold and the photos are a lot better with the sun rising over mighty Mount Everest and the huge Nuptse wall. Steve, my Aussie roomy (yes be careful of your wallet with those Aussies ;-) had a bad sleep but showed good determination to give it a crack. I was to climb Lobouche so decided to head off in front and give the body & lungs a bit of a push which proved great as I beat my 70 minute record getting to the high point in 62 minutes. The rest of the group did a great slow & steady effort reaching an hour later which was a good effort for veterans and rookie trekkers alike. The views were extremely rewarding and I would always recommend going to both EBC & KP as they each have their own unique, amazing features of mind-blowing landscapes.
Well done guys & gals what a great effort and Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar are certainly no walk in the park - just ask anyone who's completed them. It takes a tough, focused effort with many elements having to slot into place to get the result and achieve the goal. Now we just had to get down!
Thanks to all the team of Saran, Nima, Om and clients: Mats, Emma and Steve - a superb time had by all!
www.sunstoneadventures
Tuesday, 29 December 2009
Everest Base Camp & Island Peak Memoirs Part VII
Tuesday 28th October Lobouche (4,930m) to Gorak Shep (5.180m)
We get on the trail and meet up with “Team America” ie Maile, Caitlin and Brandon (all siblings) and Jessie. We cruised at a slow steady pace with glorious weather again. The gang is in good spirits, despite not acclimatising properly (coming up too quick and being rather ill with banging headaches at Thukla a part from Jessie). I head up past Gorak Shep, leaving my gear in our room and visit Rob Hall’s memorial. I am really touched and shed a tear for my great countryman and Himalayan legend. The late afternoon storm clouds swirl about, with views of Nuptse creating quite an atmosphere and a feeling of big mountain respect – this was the stuff I’d come to see! Rob Hall was only 35 years old when he passed – what a young life to be taken by this extremely powerful mountain, the intense feelings really hit home as I am 33 years old and still feel very young at heart (most of the time anyway)!
Wednesday 29th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) Acclimatisation Day – Kala Pattar (5,545m)
This morning we’re going to head up to the classic viewpoint that takes in Mt.Everest, unlike EBC which actually doesn’t but has views of the Khumbu icefall and surrounds. I pack up the daypack and we cruise up the 5545m vantage point. After 70 minutes of a slow persistent slog in the thinning air we are treated to absolute mind blowing views of Mt. Everest in all its glory. The eye takes in great views of the khumbu ice fall leading up from EBC and the whole surrounding bowl. Pumori is close behind Kala Pattar and is a striking triangular peak highlighted by a deep deep blue sky. After taking in the views I Trot back down to the sandy flat plateau area of Gorak Shep and lay in the sun by a beautiful ice lake – great to have the feet out of the boots and in the sun! A few momos in the arvo with some chilled out reading. Ian the New Yorker is still feeling quite sick with little appetite (he had been in the Indian Himal for over 40 days so it would be unusual for it to be an acclimatising issue) and is suffering from bad guts. Night arrives and Christina and Saran turn up with the team of Swedes (Per, Freddy and Ola) whom I will join in a few days to Climb Island Peak. It’s great to have a chat and some chai and get to know them all a little better – what a great bunch of people they are!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
We get on the trail and meet up with “Team America” ie Maile, Caitlin and Brandon (all siblings) and Jessie. We cruised at a slow steady pace with glorious weather again. The gang is in good spirits, despite not acclimatising properly (coming up too quick and being rather ill with banging headaches at Thukla a part from Jessie). I head up past Gorak Shep, leaving my gear in our room and visit Rob Hall’s memorial. I am really touched and shed a tear for my great countryman and Himalayan legend. The late afternoon storm clouds swirl about, with views of Nuptse creating quite an atmosphere and a feeling of big mountain respect – this was the stuff I’d come to see! Rob Hall was only 35 years old when he passed – what a young life to be taken by this extremely powerful mountain, the intense feelings really hit home as I am 33 years old and still feel very young at heart (most of the time anyway)!
Wednesday 29th October Gorak Shep (5,180m) Acclimatisation Day – Kala Pattar (5,545m)
This morning we’re going to head up to the classic viewpoint that takes in Mt.Everest, unlike EBC which actually doesn’t but has views of the Khumbu icefall and surrounds. I pack up the daypack and we cruise up the 5545m vantage point. After 70 minutes of a slow persistent slog in the thinning air we are treated to absolute mind blowing views of Mt. Everest in all its glory. The eye takes in great views of the khumbu ice fall leading up from EBC and the whole surrounding bowl. Pumori is close behind Kala Pattar and is a striking triangular peak highlighted by a deep deep blue sky. After taking in the views I Trot back down to the sandy flat plateau area of Gorak Shep and lay in the sun by a beautiful ice lake – great to have the feet out of the boots and in the sun! A few momos in the arvo with some chilled out reading. Ian the New Yorker is still feeling quite sick with little appetite (he had been in the Indian Himal for over 40 days so it would be unusual for it to be an acclimatising issue) and is suffering from bad guts. Night arrives and Christina and Saran turn up with the team of Swedes (Per, Freddy and Ola) whom I will join in a few days to Climb Island Peak. It’s great to have a chat and some chai and get to know them all a little better – what a great bunch of people they are!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Thursday, 24 December 2009
Island Peak Memoirs V
Friday 24th October Deboche to Dingboche (4,420m)
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
I get off to early start (to avoid congestion) after brekkie getting on the track by 6.50am! Another clear blue, fresh morning and nice to have the track to myself. I wind my way up the Imja Khola River passing stupas and stopping at a couple of villages for tea on the way. In Shomane the kids are very interested in my guide book so I show the local pictures to all 3 of the small boys who are making havoc around me - just playing. I head towards Orsho, the track flattening with beautiful boulders surrounding as I head towards the river crossing to take me up to Dingboche. The upper mountain valley really starts to beckon here and a feeling of seriousness starts to take hold. There are no more trees just scree slopes leading to Moraine and towering peaks. I’m definitely getting closer to the action! I pull into the “Himalaya Lodge” which has epic views of Ama Dablam from the gloriously sunny courtyard – this is a bit surreal I thought to myself. It’s one of the hugest fangs of rocks I’ve ever seen with huge hanging ice valleys that tower above me as I slurp on my Masala Chai. I’m served great Momos (Tibetan dumplings) to boot and a chance to do some washing with the afternoon sun to dry it out. I’m reading Sir Edmund Hillary’s autobiography (one of NZ’s greatest legends and of course the first ascentionist of Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay) – a present from my beloved Nan all the way back in Christchurch, NZ. I think of her and my family, feeling very lucky to experience such grandeur and peaceful harmony, what a great spot!
Monday, 14 December 2009
Island Peak Mountaineering Expedition Memoirs II
Monday 20th October – Phakding (2,650m) to Monjo (2,815m)
I’m still feeling crap and it has now spread to the chest – blerg! After a huge sleep and lazy start I walk up the valley following the thunderous Dudh Kosi River with incredible views of the towering Thamserku. I arrive at “Doma Lodge” in Monjo around midday and kick back reading in the blazing sun before an afternoon siesta to replenish the energy levels. A nice comfortable room and hot shower then time for Dahl Bhaat and good Apple Pie – mmmnnnnn the pleasures of comfort food!
Tuesday 21st October – Monjo (2,815m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
A big day a head – the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar! I get an early start with big brekkie of 2 X boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and honey porridge. I slowly slog to Namche Bazaar, taking 2.5 hours arriving earlier than predicted and I’m feeling ok, I’ve gained this key acclimatization point and can now chill out for the next couple of days. It’s nice to be up here with the hustle and bustle of the market bazaar. I score a cheap place and from the surrounding evidence of Yak Dung it seems to be some kind of Yak drivers stop! It’s very homely which is rare for the busy Bazaar and will do the trick for some well needed recovery before I head up further. It’s perched on the eastern side and has great views over the sunny Namche Bowl. Nice family but a small pesky dog starts yapping at me, oh well can’t have it all! I seem to be the only “gora” (foreigner) staying here with the yak herders and yaks - well it’s about the experience we’re all searching for I think to myself! I head down to the legendary Everest Bakery and score a great seat in the sun, chomping on my Yak Sizzler with yummy mushroom sauce. It’s quite rich and gamey, and can be a little tough sometimes, not this bad boy, it’s juicy and tender. I head back for a siesta and a nice dinner (tuna, vege and rice) before settling in for an early night to break this cold. Some scratchy sounds in the walls, only rats I think to myself as long as they leave me alone to sleep, which they do!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Monday 20th October – Phakding (2,650m) to Monjo (2,815m)
I’m still feeling crap and it has now spread to the chest – blerg! After a huge sleep and lazy start I walk up the valley following the thunderous Dudh Kosi River with incredible views of the towering Thamserku. I arrive at “Doma Lodge” in Monjo around midday and kick back reading in the blazing sun before an afternoon siesta to replenish the energy levels. A nice comfortable room and hot shower then time for Dahl Bhaat and good Apple Pie – mmmnnnnn the pleasures of comfort food!
Tuesday 21st October – Monjo (2,815m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
A big day a head – the steep climb up to Namche Bazaar! I get an early start with big brekkie of 2 X boiled eggs, Tibetan bread and honey porridge. I slowly slog to Namche Bazaar, taking 2.5 hours arriving earlier than predicted and I’m feeling ok, I’ve gained this key acclimatization point and can now chill out for the next couple of days. It’s nice to be up here with the hustle and bustle of the market bazaar. I score a cheap place and from the surrounding evidence of Yak Dung it seems to be some kind of Yak drivers stop! It’s very homely which is rare for the busy Bazaar and will do the trick for some well needed recovery before I head up further. It’s perched on the eastern side and has great views over the sunny Namche Bowl. Nice family but a small pesky dog starts yapping at me, oh well can’t have it all! I seem to be the only “gora” (foreigner) staying here with the yak herders and yaks - well it’s about the experience we’re all searching for I think to myself! I head down to the legendary Everest Bakery and score a great seat in the sun, chomping on my Yak Sizzler with yummy mushroom sauce. It’s quite rich and gamey, and can be a little tough sometimes, not this bad boy, it’s juicy and tender. I head back for a siesta and a nice dinner (tuna, vege and rice) before settling in for an early night to break this cold. Some scratchy sounds in the walls, only rats I think to myself as long as they leave me alone to sleep, which they do!
www.sunstoneadventures.com
Saturday, 21 November 2009
The Famous Snowdonia Pub remembers Everest legends
The famous Pen-Y-Gwryd pub is renowned for its connection with the successful mountain climbing expeditions of Mount Everest in 1953 and Kanchenjunga in 1955.
The pub dates back to 1811 as a farm house that became a public house serving the Llanberis area in Snowdonia, North Wales. The original ‘Climbers Club’ has its roots here being born over a few pints back in the day - in 1898. In 1922 the Pen-Y-Gwryd became a Mountain Rescue post and you can still see the plaque attached on the pub’s frontage (right hand side) when entering. This was closely tied to 2 other mountain rescue posts located in Ogwen’s cottage (now Ogwen Valley mountain rescue center) and Plas y Brenin (now the outdoors pursuits training center).
The hotel really gained its reputation due to the British Expeditions of Everest 1953 and Kanchenjunga 1955 who utilised the area to train and test oxygen equipment before embarking on their mountaineering missions. As you walk in and go to the right there is hiking boots string from the ceiling and a magnificent black & white print of Hillary & Tenzing sipping Chai on the Everest climb, You can still see the expedition party’s signatures on the ceiling on the left hand side of the pub (when entering). This includes the famous kiwi legend Edmund Hillary, British Everest leader John Hunt and Sir Christopher Bonnington who was successful on Kanchenjunga in 1955.
But what the Pen-Y-Gwryd is really renowned for is the classic ‘snug’ which is situated behind the bar and you can only enter it by ducking through the kitchen. If you’re a resident you are allowed to freely enjoy the sung with its classic memorabilia of the Everest expedition, if you’ve just rocked up to the pub you’ll need to have a word and ‘talk your way in’ for a 5 minute butchers. It has a great cabinet which has the rope which was used by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay to belay each other, crampons and other kit & equipment that was used to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Other trinkets and bits & pieces are shown with lots of photos and memorials are all displayed in a lovely wood panelled room which for any Everest aficionado is just great. A great way to enjoy a well earned dink after coming off the hill! Go check it out and soak up the classic atmosphere!
For some video footage inside the pub:
http://www.facebook.com/#/pages/Sunstone-Adventures-Limited/125604380964?ref=mf
For info on Trekking & Mountaineering in the Everest region please see Sunstone Adventures new website on: http://www.sunstoneadventures.com/
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